Collingwood

Though we're continuing on the sweet side after our last review of Seagram's VO Gold, this whisky is extremely different in method and result. Collingwood is the result of a distillery branching out in their aging and then again in their finishing process, introducing a process to Canada that seems like it should have been around for a long time. 

In the idyllic resort town of Collingwood, on the shores of Nottawasaga Bay, the Canadian Mist Distillery has long produced simple whisky for export to the US market. Canadian Mist has been a favourite for mixing amongst Americans for decades, but as tastes changed, the distillery decided to venture into more interesting bottlings. They created Collingwood Whisky as a result, but also pioneered their maple finishing process in doing so. 

Collingwood starts with a base of corn and malted barley, like it's sibling Canadian Mist, and is distilled in an unusual (for Canada) method. This base is triple distilled to become very neutral in flavour, then enters a 'doubler.'  The doubler is a common element of bourbon production, and removes some impurities through copper contact. It almost functions as a fourth distillation, which brings this base close to vodka territory for flavour neutrality. Though that may be ideal for the exported Canadian Mist brand, Collingwood needed a big hit of flavour, and finds this in the rye distillate made here. 

Added only sparingly to Canadian Mist, this punchy rye is added liberally to Collingwood and doesn't shy away from the white hot side of that grain. 

Now comes the interesting part; Collingwood's signature is a "mellowing" process using toasted maple staves. It levels out the bright rye with a sweet, round flavour that can only be from Canada. To achieve this, the fully-aged base and rye barrels are emptied together for marrying into stainless steel vats, with toasted (but not charred) maple staves; basically a deconstructed barrel. The staves float atop the blend for a couple months before proofing down with Georgian Bay water and then bottling. 

This standard bottle comes in at just $35 in Ontario, another example of the tremendous value to be found in Canadian whisky. It's now been joined by some limited release editions like the terrific Town Collection Double-Barreled and the rare, very interesting 21 year rye. All of Collingwood's expressions highlight the signature smooth maple finish and this entry-level bottle is a fine example of that. It looks great on a bar but more importantly entices whisky lovers with the prospect of future releases from this suddenly very interesting distillery. 

The Collingwood area is known for its skiing, boating, and golf and has also become a hotbed for cider. After a couple of those, a transition to a dram of this whisky could cap off a perfect day in this corner of paradise. 

^The stylish Canadian market bottle.

Collingwood Canadian Whisky

40% alc./vol.

$35 at LCBO

The nose is carried by rich brown sugar, caramel, green apple, and some earthiness. Maple, of course, follows as does what I can only describe as peanut butter and even a bit of a meaty note. There's florality and just a touch of oak, but no burn nor suggestion of the coming rye spice. Quite nice in all; rich, sweet, and ever so Canadian. 

On the palate, the oak leads alongside the maple, which is entwined throughout. The mouthfeel is thick and lovely. More brown sugar, caramel, and even some saltiness before a quick slap of scalding rye (in the best possible way!). Capsicum, peppercorn, and chili oil take over for just a fleeting moment, but leave big flavour implications. Before you know it, the maple washes back over and soothes the palate, departing in a viscous syrupy wave.

The finish begins with more of that great maple before the remnants of the rye take over, with lingering bitter citrus. The hot embers are still there but it's mostly the bitter pith noticed. 

What an interesting whisky. It brings so much rich maple but also rye heat in abundance. It's not perfect though; this won't be the first review to call the middles a bit thin. Maybe the rye component, in all it's fiery glory, is a little too fleeting. There so much there but it is almost immediately quelled by the maple's return. 

That's not necessarily a bad thing for most people who pick this bottle up; it manages to pack all that heat and still be a very easy sipper. With both the heat and the sweet balanced pretty well, Collingwood should please loads of rye drinkers. This whisky lover salivates at the thought of a higher-strength release that could unleash more complexity. But on its own, this is much more than just a good looking bottle; it's an innovative and very Canadian exploration that should always be on hand as a sipper. There's not a lot better out there for $35 and almost no other whiskies that can genuinely please everyone without compromising for anyone.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 91

Characteristic: Maple