Captain's Table (1960s)

Here's something we don't get to enjoy everyday; a 1960's-vintage blend. It's Canadian whisky the way it used to be, full of the big flavours that are only now returning after the '80s brought vodka to the forefront and destroyed bold whisky for decades. 

Captain's Table was made at L.J. McGuinness Distillery Co. in Toronto's West End. Though the brand is now known for its liqueurs behind every bar, it existed as an independent distiller from 1938 to 1988, when it was bought by Corby (and production was moved to Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, where it continues today). 

The bottle reviewed here can't easily be traced to a specific vintage, though there is a lot number printed on the seal. Anyone with access to the LCBO archives, let me know! 

We do know this bottle was filled before 1969. In that year,  McGuinness was sold to Standard Brands and the bottle design was changed. 

By the time McGuinness was sold to Corby, whisky tastes had changed to light and smooth, chasing the vodka craze. Only now are drinkers returning to rich and flavourful ryes. 

Captain's Table is one of those old-school rich ryes. More like a Highland Scotch than a traditional rye, it's smoky rather than spicy. Truly enjoyable, collectors who come across one of these rare bottles should jump on it. Not only is it a throwback to a bygone era of distilling, it's an absolutely fantastic dram.

Captain's Table Canadian Whisky

Pre-1969 Bottling

43% ABV

McGuinness Distillers, Toronto

A surprising aroma of smoke right off the hop leads to sweetness and stewed fruits. Plum stands out on the nose and leads the way on the palate.

The plum is joined by full caramel and brown sugar notes. Rich vanilla, oak, and even a hint of orange peel suggest remarkable similarities to today's Tomatin 12 year single malt. It isn't what you'd expect in a rye, and is a departure from similar Canadian bottlings of the era, notably Canadian Club. 

The palate fades into more smoke, almost akin to a peated malt. A slight peppery warmth suggests rye, followed by toasty grain and mildly sweet dried cranberry. Roasted coffee leads into a short but smoky finish. 

All in all, unexpected and full bodied whisky unlike anything currently being released. Whisky lovers can only hope Hiram Walker one day release a faithful new Captain's Table. Until then, though, only the lucky few of us can savour a taste of the past. 

Heatseeker Score: 91

Category Score: N/A

Characteristic: Elegant