Centennial Limited Edition Canadian Rye Whisky

If Centennial is anything, it's a trickster. It's shockingly low price point means whisky drinkers can pick up a bottle without a second thought. At the same time, though, it's easy-drinking nature means you'll be back for another bottle far sooner than you'd planned. Few whiskies are easier to get hooked on than this one.

Centennial is made at Highwood Distillery, about forty-five minutes south of Calgary in the Foothills of the Rocky Mountains. The town of High River exudes western charm backdropped by that reach-out-and-touch-them Rockies vista only Alberta can provide. 

Like other whiskies from Highwood,  Centennial is built on a base of soft winter wheat, rather than the ubiquitous corn that anchors many blended whiskies elsewhere. That wheaten base is the epitome of gentle, soft, smooth flavours that ease the palate into the rye grain that follows. Aged in Alberta's dry climate in ex-bourbon barrels, the whisky comes out smoothly integrated and delightful throughout. Due to growing demand, Highwood dropped the 10 year age statement that used to be present, but this whisky is still likely somewhere close to that. Wheat can sometimes be too sweet if not aged long enough; see what it does in a young wheated bourbon and you'll find a completely different grain to what's in Centennial. I'd challenge anyone to find a comparable well-aged whisky that can compete at a sub-$30 price.

This is one of a handful of Southern Alberta ryes rhat are, to me, the consummate casual Canadian whiskies. Alongside Alberta Premium and Alberta Springs, these drams effortlessly balance everyday ease with a hot rye kick. And they retail for almost laughably low prices. The province really is the perfect place to make rye. Before trying this one, be sure to thank the whisky angels for giving us Alberta. 

Centennial Limited Edition Canadian Rye Whisky

2019 Bottling

40% ABV

$28.95 at the LCBO

A soft, fruity, buttery nose with suggestions of a deeper earthiness or even a hint of smoke. Oak for sure, with what might be a tiny hint of strawberry.

In the mouth, Centennial's balancing act opens with the sweet, soft, oaky wheat. Not toasty per se, but more toward vanilla and butter. Then in comes the rye, clean and hot. This is rye of the capsicum, cinnamon, black pepper variety. Still under this heat lies that supple wheat. I get pithy grapefruit at the tail end which leads into a short, balanced finish. 

The interplay between buttery wheat and pepper departs with that dry, woody rye note people love. Only the slightest whisper of alcohol burn hints at anything other than total refinement. The finish, though short and straightforward, demands another pour. 

This whisky is extremely clean, not overly complex, but so well balanced. There aren't any off-flavours that jump out. Centennial is indeed the ideal easygoing rye. It'll be a challenge to pour just one dram but, at the fantastic price point, that isn't really a concern. Fantastic stuff; just as much a great first taste for the Canadian whisky newbie as a faithful staple on the largest bar.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 92

Characteristic: Smooth

For an explanation of the scoring system, please see the Reviews page.

^ A handy parking spot just outside High River in summer 2018

Last Straw Rye - Batch 1

I'm really pleased that the first review on this blog should be from a distillery who've gone to great distances to pay forward their success in the industry. Last Straw, aside from producing a variety of intense, unique spirits, have allowed startups to create spirits using their facility and under their licence as they navigate the arduous process of acquiring their own stills. 

They also have a fascinating spirits programme of their own, working often with local farmers and the nearby Lake Wilcox craft brewery. The rye was their first whisky release, after three years in oak. The public were invited to a launch event at the distillery, which operates out of an unassuming industrial unit not far from fellow whisky pioneers Still Waters.

They weren't always in Vaughan, though. From the sound of it, it was a town planner with a vendetta who quashed their already-constructed farm distillery just outside the village of Erin. After sinking tens of thousands into that operation, the distillery had to pack up and relocate. In Vaughan, they found an enthusiastic council and wasted no time on their second attempt. 

After three years, at the launch party for their rye whisky, I was lucky to obtain a bottle signed by distiller Don Dimonte. Like it's quirky sprouted corn sibling, this single rye has won lots of praise. And it's well deserved, as this is a classic rye-forward whisky.

 In contrast to some whiskies (here but also in Scotland and elsewhere), this whisky is only distilled to 62.5%. That means a lot of the congeners that can add complexity are preserved, unlike the 'cleaner' whiskies that are distilled as high as 95%. After only three years in oak, even with a powerful new barrel, it would be quite possible to see those congeners come through as off-flavours in need of more aging to mellow out. That's not the case here though, as the rye is sharp and focused throughout. Those congeners will only serve to add to the flavour profile of this whisky as it ages further.

Interestingly, Last Straw label their whiskies with the American designation 'straight.' In the States, this designation stipulates certain grain quantities, still and cask strengths, and the use of new charred oak barrels. The term doesn't have any recognised definition in Canada, but it's been embraced anyway by Last Straw. To that end, the liquid spends it's time in #3 char virgin American oak. Regardless of label, this rye is superbly true to style and a fantastic option for someone exploring the spicy side of rye.

Last Straw Straight Ontario Rye

Batch 1 (2019)

43% ABV

$75 at www.laststrawdistillery.com

Clove, nutmeg, and grassy notes on the nose. With less of the sweet hints you sometimes get, this rye also brings hot spice right from the outset. 

That spice follows through to lead the palate with a fresh oakiness and sweet-hot cinnamon. Underneath, earthy flavours reveal themselves. I get some fennel late on the palate; perhaps its the interplay between the peppery heat and vegetal undertones. The middle is richer than many whiskies at this age with its herbaceous character. The complexity of the lower-strength distillation is revealed here.

The finish lightens somewhat with citrus, more peppery spice, and lingering maple and caramel. Really a nice way to round this one off.

This is a great rye after only three years and holds huge promise for the future. I can't wait to see what becomes of the vegetal undertones that lie beneath the hot rye. Today it's a terrific, warming dram  and a solid showpiece from a distillery doing a great deal behind the scenes of our fledgling industry. Ontario needs more distilleries like Last Straw!

Heatseeker Score: 88

Category Score: 86

For an explanation of the scoring system, please see the Reviews page.