The 9.09% rule; perhaps the most misunderstood and controversial element of Canadian whisky regulations. Some whisky drinkers in Scotland and the US (and far too many Canadians) slag off the whole style with mistruths surrounding what has also been called Canadian whisky's superpower. It also isn't used nearly enough, perhaps for fear of reprisal, but as Canadian whisky continues its elevation to premium status, this is perhaps the most exciting area for creativity and innovation.
In short, the rule allows for up to 9.09% of a rye to include other spirits aged at least two years, or wine. The origins of this admittedly actually lie in American tax regulations; Canadian distillers used to be able to get a break on American duties if they blended in some American whiskey to their exported bottles. Aside from a tax break, though, it also gave distillers leverage to do unique things with other spirits as part of their blends. It doesn't mean blenders can just add anything to their whisky, though, in spite of what many uneducated commentators might sneer.
There are rules; only aged (2+ years) spirits or wine can be blended in and the whisky must still possess the flavour characteristics of Canadian whisky. So, despite what bourbon and Scotch snobs might suggest, no one is blending in vodka or orange juice or anything like that.
There are some great examples of the 9.09 rule being used well; Alberta Premium's beloved (but sadly discontinued) Dark Horse used Old Grand Dad bourbon and sherry while Wiser's Union 52 added 52-year old Scotch! In practice today, if this rule is employed it tends to be done so sparingly, rarely with more than a percentage or two of added liquid.
Finally, though, this quirk is getting it's due as the blender's superpower thanks to a truly innovative bottling from buzzy whisky house Bearface. With the smart title 'One Eleven Series,' which corresponds to 9.09% as a fraction, they are proudly and conspicuously taking advantage of this rule.
For their first One Eleven release, Bearface teamed up with mezcalero Pedro Hernandez to add two-year old Mezcal. Tequila's trendy, smoky cousin is rarely aged this long as the smoky flavours can take over the subtleties of the agave base. In this case, though, the smokiness makes for a truly unique sipper. Not everyone will enjoy this - it's definitely not your run of the mill "smooth" blend, but for the explorer, this is the next frontier.
Not a tonne is shared about the base of this whisky. The irony isn't lost coming from a brand whose motto is "hide nothing, fear nothing" but I digress. We are fairly certain it's distilled in Collingwood at Canadian Mist and that the casks are transported to B.C.'s Mission Hill winery for finishing. The bottle claims to be single grain, and we can assume, based on cost and origin, that means corn.
The barrel aging regime is, as with Bearface's flagship 7 year old, thoughtful. With their winery background, the Bearface team gravitated toward rich, fruity, spicy French oak casks. Two different toast levels give both rich spicy notes and a sweeter profile. These are blended with the Mezcal, which spends it's two years in vanilla forward ex-bourbon barrels. The result leaves the base whisky earthy and floral, but the smoky mezcal makes this whisky truly unlike any other.
Bearface One Eleven Series: Oaxaca
45% alc./vol.
$50 in Ontario, Alberta, BC
The nose starts off fruity, as might be expected of aged corn whisky. Dark fruit becomes more floral than anything, with hints of allspice and clove.
It's the first sip, though, where things get delightfully weird. It becomes immediately clear that this doesn't taste like any whisky you've tried before; dry oak starts but quickly gives way to strong black and chili pepper, cumin, and an oily character. The French casks impart lots of drying tannins, but vanilla from the American oak is also detected. The earthy, smokiness is what takes over, though.
The Mezcal also brings loads of acidity and pungent earthy flavours. I'd compare it quite strongly with Mexican adobo sauce. The cask tannins and Mezcal acidity lend some bite, not unlike the white heat you find in some rye forward whisky.
On the finish, more of the same. Earthiness, smoke, and a return to dry oak. There's so much going on here, and it's so unlike any other whisky, I find myself a bit confused as to flavour descriptors. I even find it very difficult to score, it simply doesn't taste like any other whisky. There's no point of comparison in the category and I'm not even sure this blend accomplishes what it set out to do, whatever that may be. You could argue the Mezcal comes in way too hot and fast and that everything else is thrown off kilter. But you could also argue that this is the kind of devil-may-care approach needed to smash down everyone's preconceptions. One thing is absolutely certain though, this is not a subtle dram by any stretch.
This is a crashing, acidic, smoky bonfire of a whisky that is a radical departure from everything next to it on the shelf. Many will find it unpalatable but it could also steal many a cocktail show. For the adventurous, sipping this is a must. What an ideal gift this would make for the whisky drinker, or fans of agave spirits. It's a conversation piece in and of itself. Not everyone will want a bottle but absolutely everyone should try a sip. There is truly nothing like it out there but that won't last; no other whisky style has the ability to create something like this. It's inevitable that the Canadian category will make legions of new fans as it dives headfirst into a newfound embrace of the 9.09 - or better yet the 1/11 - rule.
This is a category defining whisky that not everyone will love, or even understand, but everyone should try. If we one day look back on the present renaissance of Canadian whisky, the moment Bearface released this bottle will undoubtedly be one of the highlights.
Heatseeker Score: 85
Category Score: 85
Characteristic: Smoky
*Please take these scores with a grain of salt. This whisky is in a flavour category entirely on its own; it's all but impossible to score it in relation to any other bottle presently on the market. The only thing is to try it and decide for yourself!
I have tried that whisky, smoke smoke flavour it have.
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