As Canadian whisky's upmarket revolution continues, no large distiller has made as strong an effort to keep enthusiasts engaged as J.P. Wiser's. Far from content with their old-school blends, Wiser's have introduced a growing roster of unique, rye-forward brands for the avid drinker.
In addition to Lot 40, Pike Creek, and Gooderham and Worts, themed limited editions celebrating NHL alumni have hit shelves over the past few years. Though somewhat contrived, there has been an effort to match the flavour profiles of each release to the playing style of the namesake players. In today's review, the bold and tenacious Leafs legend Wendel Clark gets a big 100% rye with his name on.
The liquid is an 11 year old blend of pot- and column-distilled rye aged in both ex-Bourbon and charred new oak casks. To an extent, this is an older brother to Wiser's Triple Barrel Rye, which has a similar distillate profile.
To honour Toronto's 416 area code, and perhaps for some slightly bigger flavour, this whisky is bottled at 41.6%. It was originally released for the 2018-2019 hockey season but there are still bottles to be found in the Wiser's online boutique, with shipping available across Ontario. If you can find a bottle, I recommend picking it up, this is terrific rye at a great price point.
J.P. Wiser's Alumni Series - Wendel Clark
41.6% alc./vol.
$45 at J.P. Wiser's online shop
On the nose, the Bourbon cask influence is pronounced. There's sweet corn and lots of oak. Bright fruit notes, particularly red apple come up with dry grain and spice notes; caraway and dill foreshadow the palate. I also find some subtle dry fruit, particularly apricot amidst the smooth oak and grain.
The palate is the grainy, herbaceous type of rye rather than the white hot spice you might expect from the 'bold and tenacious' description on the label. The much-loved rye bread (or akvavit) profile of caraway and dill from Lot 40 are prominent, with the spice restrained underneath. There is a pleasing, acidic sourness like fermenting bread. Herbaceous flavours continue; black liquorice, molasses, and a very subtle bitter citrus. This is like drinking a loaf of bread - delicious and without any discernable off-notes or rough edges.
Restrained spice rises on the medium-long finish along with pronounced mint. There is rich tobacco, oak, and loads more rye bread as the finish slowly fades.
What a fantastic sipper. Though I wouldn't necessarily call it tenacious, this rich, quite flawless whisky tastes like a trip to the bakery with its big grain profile. Making liberal use of Hiram Walker's grainy column still rye distillate, this is the liquid equivalent of a freshly baked loaf.
Of course you want to drink this as a Leafs fan, but the quality and big, grainy flavours will be enjoyed by any whisky drinker. This is quality rye at a great price, and a champion on any bar.
Heatseeker Score: 88
Category Score: 93
Characteristic: Grain forward
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