Crown Royal Black

Crown Royal's popularity seemingly knows no bounds, especially in North America. You'll be hard-pressed to find a back bar anywhere, from fine steakhouse to neighbourhood Chinese takeaway, that doesn't feature the distinctive bottle.

But as tastes have changed, the smooth and sweet whisky in the famous purple bag has been slowly losing market share. It now lines up next to increasingly premium releases but it was back in 2010 when the first big nod to flavour emerged for Manitoba's most famous export. 

Crown Royal Black, though far from a premium whisky, was designed to target the loud, oaky flavours of American rye and many bourbons. Like these American whiskies aged, by law, in charred new American oak casks, Crown Black is aged mainly in barrels with heavy char. It is also bottled at a meaningfully elevated 45%. 

These factors combine to bring what the label calls 'robust and full bodied' flavours. That description is apt; this bottle packs in as much flavour as its famous sibling Northern Harvest, if not more. It all comes at a price not much higher than the standard Crown bottling, which represents tremendous value for the amount of flavour and elevated strength. It will surely divide opinion, as whisky this big must necessarily do, but it promises a full-on experience for any drinker.

Crown Royal Black

45% alc./vol.

$35 at LCBO 

On the nose, sweet notes take the lead with vanilla, toffee, and lots of molasses-like cola. But there is plenty of spice too, with a crackling black pepper that rides above a dry hay note.

The palate continues with the big sweet and spicy profile, carried on a rich, oily body. There is immediately brittle, hot rye spice with an undercurrent of cola as well as a creamy butterscotch that is complimented well by the full mouthfeel. The flavours are integrated and it remains sippable, in spite of the heat.

On the finish, things turn up in a big way! White hot rye first punches and then barehandedly slaps you across the face in lavalike waves. That second wave is bone-dry, like licking a burning barrel. An absolute scorcher, the Prairie rye comes across like a much more ornery Alberta Springs 10 year. As the blaze calms down a little, sweet dried apple moves in to quell the fire, though warmth lingers on and on. As things fade, though, an unfortunate overripe grapefruit bitterness builds. That rancio note is a distraction that can only be corrected by another fiery sip.

Wow, lots to unpack after a taste of this. By design, the flavours are untamed; they eventually blow past the creamy body and explode into a supernova of heat on the finish. Although the flavours are big from top to bottom, the rye burst on the finish will divide drinkers more than any other aspect. 

If you particularly enjoy spicy rye, like me, you'll find as much as you can handle and then some. If you're looking for subtlety,  this was never the whisky for you. I quite enjoy the rye explosion, personally, and think it's right on target for this blend. But where the finish will let just about everyone down is the lingering bitter offnote that closes out. If Crown Royal could find a way to blend that out, this rye could be in Northern Harvest territory as one of the greats. 

Still, I'm very pleased with this purchase. The price point is simply fantastic for the elevated abv and unchained flavour. If you like the sweet, creamy aspect of Crown Royal but want something more interesting, Black dials up the flavour to 110 without sacrificing the mouthfeel. For American rye and bourbon drinkers drawn to the loud flavours of charred new oak, this is the Crown for you - and at a fraction of the cost of many American whiskies.

In sum, this bottle won't be everyone's favourite, but it will replace the purple bag as the go-to for millions who now crave bigger flavour. The offnote brings down the score but this is still a most intriguing, exciting, explosive whisky that will be a staple on my bar.

Score: 84

Category Score: 92

Characteristic: Spicy

Tawse Pinot Noir Finish

 Over the past week we've been looking at whiskies made from Ontario's Niagara wine country. We've featured two Forty Creek bottles guest reviewed by Melissa Bernais. Today, we have a guest tasting from Niagara College artisan distiller Lokesh Khismatrao. The writeup is mine, tasting notes are his but, until I have a taste myself, I've withheld the scores. Today's review is the first whisky release from the excellent Tawse Winery.

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When travelling through Niagara's luscious Beamsville Bench sub-appelation, one of the standout wineries is Tawse. Perched on the side of the Niagara Escarpment, the winery offers stunning architecture, views, and high end wines of global renown. In 2018, they began turning out spirits made from their Italian copper pot still. 

At the winery, though, you have to look a bit to find the still. The winery, which uses gravity flow, placed their still way up on the sixth floor - essentially the attic. Up there, they've churned out good grape spirits in the style of grappa, a lovely sweet vermouth, gin, and vodka, and they've been putting whisky to rest. Some years on, we see the first fruits of their labour with a blended appropriately finished in Pinot Noir casks. 

The cask finishing in this first batch was done for fifteen months on top of three years in ex-Bourbon barrels. After a day traipsing through wine country, or a visit to Dillon's distillery just down the hill, this scenic new spot for whisky is a welcome addition to the Bench. 

Tawse Canadian Whisky

40% alc./vol.

$40 at the winery

Tasting notes by Lokesh Khismatrao

Nose: Vanilla leads with dark chocolate, berries, and allspice. 

Palate: The allspice continues as does the vanilla. The berry note takes on a candied character before earthy notes move in. Rich cloves round it out. 

Finish: A warming spice on the medium finish with a smooth, not bitter departure. 

Characteristic: Baking spices

Forty Creek Resolve

Melissa Bernais is back with another guest review of a 2020 Forty Creek limited release. A fellow Niagara College distilling grad and experienced Forty Creek-er, she also contributed a review of Three Grain. I haven't tried either of these bottles yet (tragically), so no scores for now but I'll be sure to add them when I finally get my hands on some.

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Tasting Resolve alongside Three Grain, the line from then to now is impossible to miss! Fruit forward, lush spice...it's all here, but is also absolutely a unique thing unto itself.

Resolve is the 14th annual limited edition release for Forty Creek, and the final installment in Master Distiller Bill Ashburn's triptych exploring the effects of barrel finishes. Unity (2018) was finished with mocha-forward staves, Victory (2019) showcased the effects of vanilla-toned oak, while Resolve absolutely doubles down on spice. Like Unity and Victory, Resolve also includes a small measure of aged starboard wine - a fortified red, similar to port - that Bill made back in 1999, tying the three bottles together in an unmistakable way. 

Hands down, this bottle is my fav Forty Creek limited release (sorry, Confederation Oak!). While showcasing spice, the baking spice and pepper-heat are in no way overwhelming - they're complex and assertive, showcased and tempered by sweet, lush elements that make this bottle intensely sippable. I seriously would've sold a butt tonne of this to anyone walking through the door - and it's probably better that I'm not there anymore, because this is where all my tip money would go!

Forty Creek Resolve

43% alc./vol.

$80 at LCBO

Nose: Barley and barley.  Did I say barley? There's a lot of sweet cereal on that first sniff. It's quickly followed by a tonne of gorgeous, complex notes: Raisin and ripe plum. Vanilla, a little bit of cocoa, and caramelized sugar. Nutmeg and cinnamon. And more delightfully, a complex undernote of barrel char. 

Palate: Following its nose, the first expression here is a lush sweet cereal grain, followed quickly by peppery heat and baking spices. A deep, red wine lives in the heart of this sip, bringing lovely round, jammy notes. Vanilla asserts itself, with a nice little explosion of cinnamon, and a hot, complex spiciness that lingers, and swings back to say HELLO! again, just so you don't forget it (how could you, really, though?)

Yep, these two bottles. They're very, very good. You need them. Trust.

Characteristic: Spicy and Fruity

Man, I need to try this one! -Robbie

Forty Creek Three Grain (20th Anniversary Edition)

For today's review, we have a throwback release from the always-inventive Forty Creek team. And to share this buzzy bottling, we have a guest review from Melissa Bernais, a fellow Niagara College distilling grad and experienced Forty Creek-er. She's written today's review and will be back again with another 2020 special edition; Resolve. I haven't tried these bottles yet (tragically), so no scores for now but I'll be sure to add them when I finally get my hands on some.

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The past nine months have been a flurry of releases for Forty Creek; The Forager, Nanaimo Cream, and these two lovely little bottles here - Three Grain 2020 edition, and Resolve, the distillery's 14th annual limited edition release. Dang, that's busy! 

And having once been on the inside of it all - full disclosure, while enrolled at Niagara College's Artisan Distilling course, I worked at the Forty Creek retail store, walking customers through tastings and tours, and later on the bottling line - I couldn't be more delighted at the concepts and flavours finding a place on their shelves! Back in 2020, Forty Creek entered the whisky market with two offerings - Three Grain and Barrel Select. At that time, Canadian Whisky fans leaned heavily into the Barrel Select side of the family, leading the distillery to relegate Three Grain to the benches. Over the past two decades, it's made a guest appearance here and there in special, limited releases. 

The 2020 release will be Three Grain's final bow, 20 years after its first appearance on store shelves, in celebration of the place in the whisky market that Forty Creek has made for itself - and other Canadian disitlleries - in the world. Three Grain is a lush, barley-rich blend that stands up against new whiskies released to the delight of modern palates today. At the same time, it is, without a doubt, a Forty Creek whisky, with a delightfully fruit-forward aspect to it's flavour profile. It is nuanced and balanced, with lovely, surprising depths that make me wish consumers had been ready for it when it first came on the scene. I'm gonna hate to see this bottle emptied, knowing that there won't be anything coming along to replace it.

Forty Creek Three Grain (2020 bottling)

40% alc./vol.

$60 at LCBO

Nose: Sweet corn, warm barley, peppery rye. Vanilla and cinnamon. Ripe stone fruit.

Palate: Barley and rye ride throughout this sip, tying together sweet cereal notes with spicy pepper. A sweet, ripe cherry, and spiced milk chocolate heart. Vanilla, caramel and baking spices give live on the edges in your glass.

Characteristic: Fruity and Grain-forward

Canadian Club Barley Batch

Here's a really interesting expression from stalwart Canadian Club. Rather than releasing something entirely different like their single rye, this 160th anniversary special is a creative twist on their well-known blend. 

Barley Batch involves, as the name suggests, the addition of six-year-old malted barley whisky (apparently from fantastic Alberta Distillers) into their standard 1858 blend. In a sense, this whisky is like an supercharged blended Scotch, with the grain component consisting of the surprisingly boisterous CC 1858. 

The whisky is packaged, at 42%, in a very attractive bottle that feels rather high end, and originally the price point matched. When Barley Batch was released in 2018, it sold for as high as $60 in some provinces, which put it in the range of some very good ryes. I don't know if it was doing strong sales but I suspect people were reticent to pay that much for what is primarily Canadian Club 1858. I personally felt it a bit overpriced then too, though I did find myself buying a couple bottles for gifting. Now though, the price has come down and in Ontario it can be had for as little as $32. At that price, this bottle represents exceptional value and should very much be on your list. 

At the very least, this bottling should be attractive to those exploring Canadian whisky; take a blend we know very well and add new flavours. At its current price point, it slots in exceedingly well against both blended Scotch and Canadian whiskies. As a limited edition, it's unlikely we'll see this bottling on shelves forever, so it's a good pickup for collectors. But I do hope Canadian Club will put out more Barley Batch in the future and build on the idea of subtly tweaking their recipe to invite new flavours to the party.

Canadian Club Barley Batch 

Limited Edition

42% alc./vol.

$32 at LCBO

Lots of fruit on the nose; the stone fruit and spice of 1858 but also apple, mango, and lots of vanilla. 

The palate brings more of the Canadian Club signature dark fruit and rising spice, but there is a pleasant grain-forward note. Spicy rye continues to grow as underneath comes the distinctive taste of Maltesers. Less sweet perhaps, but the combination of malt and a chocolatey note lead me to this description. Throughout there is the typical butterscotch and some sweet fruit, perhaps pineapple.

The finish is perhaps a bit less intriguing than the palate; I'm getting the typical bitter citrus of many cheaper blends but without the beguiling hot rye takeover from the 1858. There's also some sweetness and lots of barley character, which makes the finish more like a young single malt. 

In all, this is a welcome addition to Canadian Club, and one I hope we will see more of. At $50-$60, it would be hard to really love this bottle but in the low $30's, this is terrific. A departure from usual CC but with plenty of reminders, and in a really elevated bottle, this makes all too much sense as a brand extension.

This whisky competes with blended Scotch but you'll be hard-pressed to find a Scottish bottle with this much character anywhere near the price point. It's a shame (for producers, not buyers) that Canadian whisky can't fetch the premiums Scotch does, but now that this is quite affordable whisky, there's no reason not to get this bottle. 

Barley Batch doesn't venture too far into either rye or malt whisky flavours, but it brings balance alongside intrigue for explorers of the category. 

Heatseeker Score: 86

Category Score: 90

Characteristic: Balanced and Fruity

Wayne Gretzky Red Cask

Amidst the vines and pastoral vistas of Niagara-on-the-Lake sits a new distillery that has really made a name for itself. Or rather, has been bestowed a name befitting it's aspirations of greatness. A collaboration between the Great One himself and Niagara wine tycoon Andrew Peller, Wayne Gretzky Distillery shows what a startup can be with massive financial backing. 

The sister to the successful Gretzky wine brand, this distillery quickly became a buzzy tourist attraction with an outdoor rink in the vineyard and year-round outdoor whisky bar. During my time living in Niagara, I could often be found with my skates and a half finished bottle of rye at the bus stop outside the distillery. Now, there is also a brewery as part of the trifecta of alcoholic pleasures to be found onsite. It's truly a fantastic addition to an incredible part of Ontario and we'll worth a visit. 

Though Gretzky himself is involved more in name than in day to day operations, the whiskies take his story into account. The grain, for example, is sourced from near his hometown of Brantford, Ontario. 

The base offering is Red Cask which features malted and unmalted rye as well as corn. The distillates are aged three years in ex-Bourbon casks and finished in red wine casks from Gretzky's wine brand. The aging process is undertaken at the massive Peller facility in Grimsby, visible from the Queen Elizabeth Way when driving into Niagara Region. Other Gretzky whiskies include an Icewine finish and "99 Proof," a gimmicky but really good bottling. They also put out a whisky cream that is, I must say, the best of any I've tried anywhere. 

^The gleaming column still at Wayne Gretzky Distillery

Wayne Gretzky No.99 Red Cask

40% alc./vol.

$40 at The Wine Shop

On the nose, a bright honey sweetness opens. There is a definite heat, reminiscent of young spirit, but not overwhelmingly so. Slight spice and a subtle tart berry note take over, no doubt the wine cask showing its hand. Some dry grain notes and light powdered sugar sweetness follow; the effect is quite strongly reminiscent of Cheerios.  

The palate brings an orderly, if slightly belligerent, procession of caramel, bitter grapefruit, and rye spice. By belligerent, I mean the youthful heat and intensity has not been tamed very much by time spent in oak. That can be a positive or negative depending on your personal tastes. 

After the caramel, there is a wholesale transition to the bitter citrus pith. Next, a sharp whack of spice; a clean, grainy heat I find common in lots of column still rye. The heat is intense but quite welcome, offset by an oily viscosity. Earthy, dark bread and lots of grain tag off with the flaming rye. Tart cranberry flies just under the heat for those who can tease it out.

That spike of rye and a resumption of the bitter note constitute the medium length finish.There is some more berry and tannic oak - more of the wine cask - but even as these fade, a rising smoky note takes over. The finish is actually quite nice and, I'd say, the biggest strength of this bottle.

This is definitely young whisky, more raw than refined. But sometimes that's a good thing; personally I welcome that vivacity in winter sipping. This dram lurches more than slides from the sweet corn portion into the hot rye but there's no dearth of flavour. Definitely an eye-opener and something I'd love in coffee.

So, though it may not be refined, it's definitely interesting. At $40, Red Cask starts to invite some competition from some good Canadian bottles. Niagara neighbour Forty Creek's Double Barrel Select is similarly priced but more polished. However, it doesn't punch nearly as hard with the rye spice, which is what some whisky drinkers look for. Gretzky's higher-end bottlings (which we will be reviewing in the near future) tend to better contain the flavour swings. And though I think more care went into the crafting of this whisky, the flavour profile compares with Liquormen's Ol' Dirty, and not just because of similar celebrity collaborations. The rye in this bottle is more complex and the finish is superior, though the cost is also higher.

Along with the other Gretzky whiskies, this whisky seems priced a little higher than what it ought to be, no doubt because of the celebrity name. I'm sure sales figures are exceptional on strength of brand, but I find this bottle and its siblings to be rare instances of poor value in Canadian whisky.

Still, sometimes you want an assertive whisky, and Red Cask delivers with big caramel and big heat alike. Though precocious, the full-on flavours of this whisky will appeal to those who don't care much for subtlety, and it will do well as a mixer. And of course, it comes from perhaps the best distillery to visit anywhere.

Heatseeker Score: 82

Category Score: 79

Characteristic: Hot

Dillon's Single Cask Rye

The Niagara Peninsula, with its mild microclimate and unique soil, has been a hotbed of fruit and wine production for decades. And where there's wine, distilleries have soon blossomed alongside. Like the nearby Forty Creek Distillery, Dillon's made their name working with local fruit to create high quality liqueurs, aperitifs, gin, bitters, and whatever else they can experiment with. Since its genesis 2012, the growth of the distillery has been impressive and they now earn high praise worldwide. Industrious and focused, Dillon's is consistently among the most innovative distilleries in Canada, and they retain a local feel in all they produce. 

And on this blog, they are certainly kindred spirits with their loving focus on 100% rye whisky. They churn out their Three Grain standard bottling, found throughout the province, but for a true taste of what Dillon's can distill, fans need to act quickly to get one of their single cask bottlings. 

Once a year, usually in early winter, Dillon's will release a cask strength look at their whisky. This review, Cask No. 114, was the exceptional 2019 release. It features a pot-distilled blend of 90% unmalted and 10% malted rye. It's aged in new oak for a little under 4 years and bottled in 200mL glass, ensuring everyone can get a taste without breaking the bank. It's really, really good whisky! I can't wait for the next release.

Dillon's Rye Whisky - Single Cask (#114)

57.2% alc./vol.

200mL bottle for $19.25 at LCBO

Something different for today's tasting, we have a guest review from Lokesh Khismatrao. Lokesh is a friend of mine and fellow graduate of Niagara College's Artisan Distilling programme. The tasting notes are his but the scoring is mine, from my own tasting notes, along the same scoring standard as the other reviews on this blog. 

-Robbie

Nose: Sweet fruity, wood, chocolate, nutmeg, slight smoke note.

Palate: Big, quite rich. First vanilla, allspice, a hint of coriander, and then surprisingly a hit of maple. That was a pleasant surprise. Lots of hot rye underneath and a creamy texture.

Finish: Warm, spicy rye and some maple sweetness linger for a good length, finally into wood spices.

Heatseeker Score: 92

Category Score: 89

Characteristic: Baking spice

Wiser's Apple

Though purists may disagree, you can't talk about Canadian whisky these days without examining one of the biggest trends in the category - the growth of flavoured whiskies and the expansion of rye into a whole new market segment. For over a century, spiced and honeyed whiskies (like Glayva, Southern Comfort, or Fireball) have been popular, as have whisky liqueurs like Sortilège. But in the last decade, ever-versatile Canadian whisky has led the world in bottling flavoured whiskies up and down the market. Crown Royal may be at the forefront of the trend, with a dozen flavours from peach to maple to Texas mesquite. And their most prominent is Regal Apple, which along with the others, has pushed sales growth for the brand even as their flagship bottling has seen declines. 

It's not just Crown Royal though; indeed most of the major brands sell flavoured whiskies now, and some exist only in the subcategory. Revelstoke, Root Out, and Select Club are just three of the many brands doing big business in the States bottling Canadian whisky with unique flavours. And one of the largest and oldest, J.P. Wiser's, have tuned in to the market with their own offerings. 

Founded in 1857, Wiser's can make the claim to be Canada's oldest extant whisky brand, beating out Canadian Club by one year! As with the namesake of the distillery, John Philip Wiser was an American who crossed into what would become Canada to distill whisky. He started in Prescott, Ontario and grew the distillery into a massive produced at home and for export. As Wiser's distillery grew, they became trailblazers in offering whisky for sale by the bottle at a time when whole-cask sales were common. In time, the distillery would be incorporated into Canadian spirits company Corby and, along with Gooderham and Worts, moved production to Windsor. 

When they released their apple flavoured bottling in 2018, they chose to go with natural flavour. Aside from being probably less bad for your body and hangover, the choice of natural flavour elevates this from being a cheap 'gateway shooter' to something more; a whisky drink worthy of consideration and a neat alternative to your usual tipple. Perhaps in summer weather or for a twist on cocktails, this is a bottle worth a look for whisky enthusiasts.

J.P. Wiser's Apple

35% alc./vol.

$30 online at J.P. Wiser Experience 

The nose brings apple juice right off the hop. Even from a distance, the crisp green apple skin note is pronounced. There's also a slight smokiness, providing a counterpoint to the bright fruit. Finally, the sweetness turns toward banana and a fresh corn note.

The banana note from the nose plays a surprisingly large role on the palate, which is led by banoffee pie; an interplay between fruit and butterscotch. Of course the green apple is there too, and there is the slightest suggestion of warming whisky spice. The palate is, as expected, sweet. But it isn't overly so - it manages to mostly avoid becoming cloying. What's more noticeable in its absence is the artificial saccharine flavours of, for example, an apple vodka. It tastes like whisky and apple juice, not whisky and 'apple flavouring green 45B' or whatever else. 

The sweetness rises into the finish with both the green apple and lots of caramel. There is the hint of a crisp edge as well as lingering brown sugar and more sweetness. There's virtually no heat to speak of, surely a result of the 35% bottling strength. 

Well, it's apple whisky. So, unsurprisingly it tastes like apple juice. No one looking for a spicy dram on a winter night should grab a bottle, but as a sweet spirit this is really nice. It doesn't taste artificial and is by far the best apple whisky I've tried, of the probably four or five such examples in my experience. 

The cocktail potential is plainly evident but even as a sipper, this bottle manages to present the apple in an integrated, genuine way. I'm definitely feeling the sweetness on my tongue after sipping, but I wouldn't call it cloying or saccharine. As far as flavoured whisky goes, this one was crafted with a rare restraint and authenticity. In my flavoured whisky experience, however limited, this would be my recommendation. 

As a whisky drinker, I'd love to try this at 40% and see if the heat and grain come through any more. But if I were looking to sip something sweet, this is a good bet at a great price.

 

Heatseeker Score: -

Category Score: 89

Characteristic: Fruit forward 

The Wild North

For perhaps the first time, this blog gets to blaze a trail as the first to review a new release. Which is great, but also means your humble correspondent must do all the digging on his own. No matter, there's a glass of whisky to help with that. 

That whisky, it turns out, is a bottle that's recently hit Québec shelves called The Wild North. Suffused with lumberjack iconography and an attractive bottle, this prominently-labelled rye carries an age statement of 5 years. The description on the back states that the liquid is actually a blend of 5 and 7 year whiskies. An educated guess is that the whiskies are corn - probably from Valleyfield Distillery - and rye. The label mentions these whiskies are aged onsite in "our own cellars."

Determining where exactly these cellars are requires a little digging and, as is usual with whisky, more educated guesstimations. If I find out more information, I'll be sure to update the review, but for now, let's trace back the origins of The Wild North through its distributor to its producer. According to the SAQ website, Wild North is produced by Mondia Alliance, which actually doesn't exist as a brand anymore. That's because, as part of a merger, it is now called Station 22.  Who, it turns out, are behind some well known labels including Spicebox spiced whiskies and the iconic Sortilège whisky liqueurs. 

Right then. We can assume Wild North is aged alongside the component whiskies in those blended products. Where exactly is it distilled and in which barrels is it aged? I have a pretty good guess based on taste but I'll have to get back to you on that. 

Either way, this whisky was released in Québec's SAQ a couple weeks ago, in mid-August. So as possibly the first Ontarian get his hands on this bottle, I'm keen to pour myself a dram or two and see what comes out.

The Wild North Rye 5 Years Old

43% alc./vol.

$39 at SAQ

The nose brings fruit and sweetness quite prominently. Actually, this reminds a lot of another Montréal product, Seagram's VO Gold. There's a citrus-y florality and linalool (Fruit Loops), with the overall sweet profile of corn whisky distillate. There's also a musty note that comes through early on. 

The palate brings much of the sweetness with a pronounced citrus character. Some butterscotch continues the dessert whisky taste until it's met by a rising, warm rye. Throughout, a full mouthfeel is the result of the elevated bottling strength. That 43% also gives a warming heft which nicely offsets the light citrus notes.

The finish is where the rye component really comes into its own. The whisky turns warming here, with white pepper and bitter grapefruit pith. There is some drying and oak, and the effect is sort of like Tabasco sauce. But it all wraps up on lingering maple.

Well, I was intrigued by the lumberjack branding and the reasonable midrange price point (as well as the forbidden fruit of a bottle you can't get in Ontario). And I wasn't disappointed, with a solid rye that runs to sweet and then spicy. It initially follows VO Gold, but takes the turn toward spice into the finish, and brings the warming 43% body. 

A solid all-rounder, let's say, and a whisky that should do quite well with consumers and mixologists. Simplistic but enjoyable, the sweet moves easily into the spicy and on a wintry Montréal day, one dram could quickly move into a lengthy session. I'm glad I find myself with a bottle of this and would certainly keep one on hand as a crowdpleasing warmer.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 88

Characteristic: Sweet and Warming

Twelve Barrels

When is Canadian whisky not actually Canadian whisky? Twelve Barrels, the scrappy upstart rye, has a great story behind it but also answers that question in an eyeopening way.

The story of Twelve Barrels goes back all the way to 1853, at least in terms of inspiration. The recipe is inspired by Napanee, Ontario distiller John Meagher, who ran a gristmill and made a wheat-rye blend with surplus grain. His son, George, became locally famous as a figure skater, jumping over his father's whisky barrels on the frozen river.

Jumping ahead to the modern era, another young trailblazer is doing great things with whisky barrels. At age sixteen, Napanee's Cole Miller was caught by his parents making wine under his bed! He moved on to homebrew beer and eventually got himself a small still. Rather than settling for moonshining, Cole took his skills to Northwestern England and apprenticed at the Lakes Distillery. Coming home, he brought his knowledge of whisky to Dragon's Den, where he impressed investors with his passion (and his Dad dressed up as George Meagher). 

Eventually, Mr. Miller found his product listed at the LCBO and gaining modest acclaim with drinkers. A great success story and definitely, as the label says, 'uniquely Canadian.' But how Canadian is it?

The answer to that is 75%. It turns out Twelve Barrels isn't technically Canadian whisky because the rye component is sourced from the United States before blending and bottling in Canada. But sourcing Canadian rye can be difficult these days, with demand so high. Perhaps Twelve Barrels had no choice but to use American rye, at least for the time being, to make ends meet on the balance sheet. 

And, fair play to the brand, they are upfront about it on their website. Although the bottle cheekily conceals the 'rye spirit' designation, Cole breaks down the three components of his blend online in good detail. Inspired by the old recipes, the base for Twelve Barrels is wheat (rather than the now ubiquitous corn). Aged in ex-Bourbon casks, this adds a soft profile and comprises 40% of the blend. For sweetness, 35% is a corn whisky also aged in ex-Bourbon. And then the rye; 25% is American rye distillate aged in virgin oak. An educated guess as to the source of the rye would be MGP Distillery in Indiana, who produce a good deal of what goes into American straight rye whiskies these days.

So, we know where we stand now. Twelve Barrels technically isn't Canadian whisky, but you wouldn't know it to taste. The profile is that of a classic Canadian blend,  light but flavourful, with a spicy rye kick. And with a great Canadian story behind it, we can agree this is worthy of a spot next to it's fellow Canucks. 

^Some cheeky labelling but we'll take it.

Twelve Barrels

40% alc./vol.

$35 at LCBO

On the nose, sweet caramel is balanced by warm rye. Brown sugar notes are set against the heat of cinnamon. But there is also a growing herbaceousness; perhaps spinach. That 'brown' earthy note adds a bit of interest to the otherwise typical blended rye profile. 

The palate starts off with very light, soft butterscotch and vanilla quickly joined by spicy rye. That rye component brings equal parts wood and the cinnamon from the nose. There is an almost-sharp fruity note alongside some citrus bitterness. 

Into the finish, the bitter citrus grows beside the residual rye heat. The finish isn't overly long or complex but has a nice tannic drying character, probably imparted from the new oak component. It begs for another easy sip. 

This is quite good as a midrange bottle. The flavours are mostly mellow, with the rye adding just the right pop of heat. Regardless of where it was distilled, the rye component works really nicely within this blend.

So, no matter the technicalities, this is a very Canadian-tasting rye that should please just about anyone who drinks it.

Heatseeker Score: 84

Category Score: 86

Characteristic: Subtle and Spicy

Rangeland

Albertans have it good when it comes to drinks in this country. Unencumbered from the repressive government sales structures that somehow still exist in the East, and with an abundant grain crop, they enjoy terrific whisky at value that is unfathomably good for those of us elsewhere in Canada. Cheap but enjoyable bottles populate the bottom shelves of the province's many bottle shops, perfect for sipping, mixing, or shooting cowboy-style. 

Rangeland Rye, from Highwood Distillery, is a definite cowboy whisky. It is produced as an own label brand for Alcanna-owned bottle shops and comes in as an entry level whisky in a plastic bottle. But beside the Prairie branding, Rangeland is an Albertan whisky through and through.

Highwood, who also produce bargain favourite Centennial, are unique as one of the only distilleries in the world who primarily use wheat as their base distillate. If rye is known for spiciness, wheat is known to brig a soft, supple mouthfeel. On top of this gentle wheaten base, a healthy dollop of blistering Prairie rye heats things up, and there may also be some corn distillate as well for sweetness. It is aged, presumably for the legal three years, in charred American oak barrels, presumably ex-Bourbon. 

Rangeland is a bargain whisky and though it won't in any global awards, it is an absolute mouthful of Alberta, and a delightful shooter or mixer. With ginger ale, with coffee, or straight out of a cowboy boot, this is the everyman's Prairie rye and a Stampede staple, even for city slickers.

*Photo courtesy drizly.com

Rangeland Rye Whisky

40% alc./vol.

$20 at Liquor Depot

The nose presents an initial caramel and vanilla sweet profile along with subtle dry oak. There's a slight herbaceousness as classic, dusty Alberta rye heats up. 

On the palate, this is definitely a rye spirit with heat from the get-go. White pepper leads but is followed by some straight alcohol fire. This is offset somewhat by bitter citrus and a hint of butterscotch. Although the body is thin, the mouthfeel benefits from the supple wheat base, which softens the sharpest notes of this young rye. Wood and even a subtle leathery note come through late, beside the bitter grapefruit rind and a touch of sweet vanilla.

The finish is short but manages to be warming without too much burn. The term might be smooth. There is some oak, a little rye grain, and some bitterness. Like the nose and palate, the finish is simplistic but enjoyable.

This whisky, ideally as a shooter or mixer, is not only great value but a perfectly enjoyable bottle. It's an unpretentious and accessible rye to have on hand at home, or on the ranch as the case may be. This would be lovely with some Canada Dry for a sweet-spice combination that is sure to please. This is yet another Albertan entry level offering that will pleasantly surprised any drinker by being plainly enjoyable. 

And at $20 and change, it makes for an affordable addition to your Calgary Stampede, line dancing confidence, or cattle wrangling. With this bottle on hand, you'll have money left over for your white hat and boots.

Heatseeker Score: 82

Category Score: 92

Characteristic: Spicy

^A Highwood Barrel on display at the Calgary Stampede

Wendel Clark 100% Rye

As Canadian whisky's upmarket revolution continues, no large distiller has made as strong an effort to keep enthusiasts engaged as J.P. Wiser's. Far from content with their old-school blends, Wiser's have introduced a growing roster of unique, rye-forward brands for the avid drinker. 

In addition to Lot 40, Pike Creek, and Gooderham and Worts, themed limited editions celebrating NHL alumni have hit shelves over the past few years. Though somewhat contrived, there has been an effort to match the flavour profiles of each release to the playing style of the namesake players. In today's review, the bold and tenacious Leafs legend Wendel Clark gets a big 100% rye with his name on.

The liquid is an 11 year old blend of pot- and column-distilled rye aged in both ex-Bourbon and charred new oak casks. To an extent, this is an older brother to Wiser's Triple Barrel Rye, which has a similar distillate profile. 

To honour Toronto's 416 area code, and perhaps for some slightly bigger flavour, this whisky is bottled at 41.6%. It was originally released for the 2018-2019 hockey season but there are still bottles to be found in the Wiser's online boutique, with shipping available across Ontario. If you can find a bottle, I recommend picking it up, this is terrific rye at a great price point.

J.P. Wiser's Alumni Series - Wendel Clark

41.6% alc./vol.

$45 at J.P. Wiser's online shop

On the nose, the Bourbon cask influence is pronounced. There's sweet corn and lots of oak. Bright fruit notes, particularly red apple come up with dry grain and spice notes; caraway and dill foreshadow the palate. I also find some subtle dry fruit, particularly apricot amidst the smooth oak and grain.

The palate is the grainy, herbaceous type of rye rather than the white hot spice you might expect from the 'bold and tenacious' description on the label. The much-loved rye bread (or akvavit) profile of caraway and dill from Lot 40 are prominent, with the spice restrained underneath. There is a pleasing, acidic sourness like fermenting bread. Herbaceous flavours continue; black liquorice, molasses, and a very subtle bitter citrus. This is like drinking a loaf of bread - delicious and without any discernable off-notes or rough edges.

Restrained spice rises on the medium-long finish along with pronounced mint. There is rich tobacco, oak, and loads more rye bread as the finish slowly fades. 

What a fantastic sipper. Though I wouldn't necessarily call it tenacious, this rich, quite flawless whisky tastes like a trip to the bakery with its big grain profile. Making liberal use of Hiram Walker's grainy column still rye distillate, this is the liquid equivalent of a freshly baked loaf. 

Of course you want to drink this as a Leafs fan, but the quality and big, grainy flavours will be enjoyed by any whisky drinker. This is quality rye at a great price, and a champion on any bar.

Heatseeker Score: 88

Category Score: 93

Characteristic: Grain forward

Pike Creek 10 - Rum Finish

Windsor, Ontario's Hiram Walker Distillery is perhaps the most dynamic in the world. Covering an enormous area in the heart of the eponymous Walkerville neighbourhood, this massive facility churns out millions of litres of spirit from vodka to gin to liqueur. And of course whisky is the star here, being the home of Wiser's, Canadian Club, and Gibson's Finest among others. But the distillery also produces rum, most prominently the Lamb's brand. And with a one-year minimum aging requirement for Canadian rum, there are plenty of barrels imbued with the flavours of the sugarcane spirit. 

So, when Canada's preeminent brand of cask finished rye needed a new flagship, finishing Pike Creek in rum barrels only made sense. The whisky brand is named after the Windsor suburb where dozens of non-climate-controlled warehouses house the resting spirit, and appeared on shelves in 2012.

Originally, the flagship was finished in Port casks but around 2016, the switch to rum was made and the result has been a highly-praised sipping whisky. The brand puts out a handful of well-aged, rye forward blends that spend time in ex-Bourbon casks before being specially finished. For the 10 year old, which is listed simply as 'Double Barreled,' the liquid goes into the distinctive bottle at 42% and is resultingly a little bigger and richer for it. Up the ladder, the 21 year old Oloroso Sherry cask finish is very highly regarded and a 15 year Niagara wine cask finish will be released in the near future. Personally, I can't wait to get my hands on a bottle.

Pike Creek Double Barreled

42% alc./vol.

$35 at LCBO

If you didn't read the label, it wouldn't take long to figure out rum is involved in this bottling. The nose is quite strongly reminiscent of a personal favourite, Lamb's Spiced. Loads of caramel, vanilla, and molasses lead with a rich plum note providing depth. 

The sweetness of the nose carries through to a creamy palate led by sweet corn. Molasses and brown sugar drive with some cola notes behind. But lest this palate become too much like rum, a tightly integrated, oaky, spicy rye rises up from the background to bring this sipper right back into Canadian whisky territory. 

The hot rye leads the finish alongside bittersweet citrus pith. Some slight tannins add moreishness as the short but flavourful finish fades with a peppery burst of campfire rye spice.

This is a well-balanced sipping whisky that deserves its continued praise. A close analogue is fellow Windsorite Gibson's Finest Bold. The Pike Creek seems to have just a touch more refinement, though that term can be rather nebulous. Both are molasses-sweet whiskies with driving rye and higher bottling strengths. I really like how the rye grows so expressively into the finish of the Pike Creek, though, even moreso than the excellent Gibson's. It's almost too close to call if you had to pick a winner, but thankfully at around $35 for each, you can taste both. 

In all, we have a refined sipper from a brand that can hold its own at any tasting. Confidently a rye and with such balanced rum influence, this Pike Creek is a winner of a cask finished whisky.

Heatseeker Score: 88

Category Score: 91

Characteristic: Sweet and Spicy

Please also enjoy reviews of Pike Creek's sister brands J.P. Wiser's (Triple Barrel Rye) and Lot 40.

Gibson's Finest Rare (12 year)

Gibson's Finest is one of those Canadian labels you see everywhere, whether out or at someone's home. And for good reason; they were the first to really focus specifically on longer aging for their blends and made it the centrepiece of the Gibson's brand. Some great TV commercials, especially during CFL broadcasts, have made the "taste, fully aged" slogan a memorable one. With the distinctive and attractive bottle designs, Gibson's products lend a masculine feel to a whisky bar.

In fact, Gibson's history goes back to the 1850s when Irish spirits merchant John Gibson opened his own distillery in Pennsylvania. Like many of the distillers who's names now grace Canadian whisky history, Mr. Gibson's fortunes were shattered by the onset of Prohibition in the United States. Rather than move his operations to Canada, like many of his contemporaries, he was forced to shut down entirely. 

By 1945, the Gibson's Finest brand had been purchased by American spirits conglomerate Schenley Industries. At the time they were constructing the Valleyfield Distillery in Quebec, and later began producing whisky with the Gibson's name from there. That distillery grew, eventually becoming one of North America's largest, home to the Seagram's VO label (check out our review of VO Gold here).

Eventually, the brand was bought by Scotch giant William Grant and Sons and production of most bottles moved to the Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, North America's largest.

The Gibson's lineup focuses on a graduated scale of aged whiskies, from the young Sterling, up to Bold at 8 years (please enjoy our earlier review), Rare at 12, and 18 year old Venerable.

The Gibson's Finest Rare we enjoy today was distilled at Valleyfield though when production moved to Windsor, the casks followed, meaning blending was done there. The casks in question are ex-Bourbon and new white oak, so there's lots of potential for influence from the wood. In a year or so (2021) we should start seeing the new Hiram Walker distillate hit shelves, so it will be interesting to compare. 

For now, this is the rich and refined flagship of the Gibson's portfolio and upholds their reputation for reasonably priced whisky imbued with quality.

And, one thing to point out; I personally love the bottle design especially for the Mickey size (375mL). Instead of the usual, tired hip flask designs, Gibson's produced a bottle that is classy, ergonomic, pours well, and generally looks good when it comes out at a party or anywhere. So well done them for thoughtful design!

Gibson's Finest Rare

40% alc./vol.

$38 at LCBO (750mL)

The nose leaps between fruity and spicy, led by orange and rye, alongside butterscotch. After a few moments, the rye spice opens into a dusty, oaky warmth and some rich stewed prune. 

The palate is led by sweet, light corn and a potent rye with black pepper, orange zest, and toasted oak. Some baking spices - clove for sure - and vanilla are met by an increasing bitter citrus. Throughout, a medium intensity rye glow brings some oaky heat, and it spikes again late.

There's a surprising sour note that comes in too, adding some acidity that is set off very nicely against the full creamy mouthfeel. A late butterscotch note and some icing sugar sweetness lead into the short but warming finish.

The citrus returns here in the form of sweet orange and also bitter grapefruit. There's a nice tannic oak warmth and some medium rye spice. The echo of rye lingers a while longer with some bitterness and peppery heat. 

Not a bad dram at all with a lovely mouthfeel. If I'm looking to critique, which I am, I'd say this whisky is balanced but lacks some of the refinement you might look for in whisky this old. The mellowing influence of twelve years in oak seems to be pretty limited. 

That's not to say Rare doesn't pack a lot of flavour in; this is big whisky. Gibson's whiskies are known for bold flavours and this is no exception, but perhaps there's a bit more youthfulness than you'd expect from a whisky that so proudly trumpets it's extended aging. In the younger Bold bottling, the same peppery, brisk rye meets it match in that whisky's sweetness. Here, the rye maybe overpowers some of the subtle fruit flavours. Still, Rare is a flavourful all-rounder, even if lacking some elegance.

Though a little brash, Rare's creamy mouthfeel and moreish acidity make it an enjoyable sipper. That sour note, in particular, is a really nice signature element. It works so well set against the creamy sweetness, and makes this easy to drink. And as for the brashness, not every whisky needs to be gentle and elegant. I for one enjoy aggressive ryes.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the profile changes as 12 year distillate from Windsor starts to fill bottles. In the meantime, though, this is a broadly enjoyable whisky that presents well. It doesn't have the quiet refinement of Canadian Club's 12 year old bottling, but it does pack more flavour and nicely integrated rye. Overall it's a well-rounded sipper with a serious hit of heat and flavour. You can never really go wrong breaking out a bottle of Gibson's Finest and that's as true as ever after 12 years. 

Heatseeker Score: 86

Category Score: 87

Characteristic: Fruity

Please also enjoy our review of Gibson's Finest Bold (8 year old).

Canadian Club Classic (12 Year)

We recently reviewed Canadian Club's ubiquitous flagship, 1858, and found it surprisingly characterful. Now it's time to move up to the popular 12 year old expression from the iconic brand. Canadian Club Classic, as the more mature bottling is known, gets about twice the aging time of its younger sibling, using ex-Bourbon barrels. 

Canadian Club itself hardly needs an introduction as one of Canada's oldest and most prolific whisky brands. Its history goes back to 1858 when Detroit, Michigan grocer Hiram Walker began to distill whisky. With Prohibition looming in the State, Walker moved his operation across the river - and across the border - into Canada. Today the distillery that bears his name is a landmark on the Windsor skyline and forms the heart of the Walkerville neighbourhood which spring up around it.

The location of Hiram Walker Distillery right on the river made it a convenient spot for rum runners transporting alcohol into the US, but even before the onset of universal Prohibition, Walker's whisky had gained a reputation for its smoothness and became popular at private clubs throughout North America. In a bid to stifle the popularity of the imported whisky, the US government demanded Walker label his 'Club Whisky' as Canadian, but the move backfired and sent Canadian whisky's popularity into the stratosphere. To this day, Canadian whisky remains astronomically popular in the United States.

Canadian Club has obtained Royal Warrants from Queen Victoria through to Elizabeth and the whisky continues to be made in Windsor, though the distillery has changed hands at the corporate level. 

CC's 12 year bottling is particularly popular in Japan, and the Canadian version is a logical upward extension for the brand. The blend of rye (malted and unmalted), corn, and malted barley is (unusually, in Canada) aged together, rather than with each grain individually. In the end, twelve years in oak have bestowed a whisky that is elegantly mellow and quite pleasant.

^ the slightly redesigned current packaging

Canadian Club Classic

40% alc./vol.

$31.45 at LCBO (750mL)

Lots of caramel on the nose along with charred oak. Nutty and then a vanilla, cola profile. Some smoke on the back end and a buttery note, the combination is almost like bacon frying. But generally a gentle nose typical of sweeter Canadian blends. 

The palate begins with sweet maple and buttery creaminess set against a hint of hot rye. There is a pleasant malt flavour and lots of brown sugar. Some yeasty notes and a rich pumpernickel flavour come through subtly. The rye spice is white hot but very restrained, so that you get more of a suggestion of its flavour without the burst of heat. The palate is fairly simple but nicely balanced and quite creamy. 

The rye spice builds into the finish where it flashes with capsicum heat, though tempered by plenty of butterscotch. Slight bitterness but it's the hot rye note which lingers for a short while. 

That last burst of rye enlivens what is a most gentle, elegant, pleasant dram. What bold grain flavour the whisky may have lost from aging the different distillates together, it makes up for in thorough integration and balance. Classic 12 also has a nice malt note, from the high barley content, which is not often found in Canadian blends. 

It's not overly complex nor particularly bold in flavour profile, but I enjoy this as a truly pleasant sipper. It's ever so gentle, elegant, polite - a soft pillow rather than a lightning bolt, with just enough verve in it from the moment of spice on the finish. It's mild-mannered but offers up plenty of refinement thanks to its age. It's also worth noting, in spite of its age, this bottle is super affordable. A friendly whisky perfect for sharing with friends (or some happy sipping on your own).

Heatseeker Score: 87

Category Score: 89

Characteristic: Sweet

Please enjoy our other Canadian Club reviews; 1858 and Chairman's Select.

J.P. Wiser's Triple Barrel Rye

One cannot discuss Canadian spirits without looking to Canada's most versatile producer, by far; Windsor's Hiram Walker Distillery. More than just whisky, this truly massive distillery churns out millions upon millions of bottles every year ranging from brown to clear to all kinds of coloured liqueurs. There are few bottle shops on earth that don't sell something which passed through a still, warehouse, or bottling line in this mild corner of Southwestern Ontario. 

As a Canadian distillery, though, the public focus is invariably on the whisky they make here, and they make a lot of it too. Whiskies from Canadian Club, Gibson's Finest, and other brands are made here, but today the distillery is first and foremost the home of J.P. Wiser's wide portfolio of whisky.

Founded in 1857, Wiser's can make the claim to be Canada's oldest extant whisky brand, beating out Canadian Club by one year! As with the namesake of the distillery, John Philip Wiser was an American who crossed into what would become Canada to distill whisky. He started in Prescott, Ontario and grew the distillery into a massive produced at home and for export. As Wiser's distillery grew, they became trailblazers in offering whisky for sale by the bottle at a time when whole-cask sales were common. In time, the distillery would be incorporated into Canadian spirits company Corby and, along with Gooderham and Worts, moved production to Windsor. 

 

From entry level bottlings like Special Blend and Deluxe up to increasingly audacious efforts (a 23 year old blend at cask strength!), this age old brand has repositioned itself at the forefront of innovation in the country. Frequent one-off and regional releases tend to garner critical praise as the brand has wholeheartedly embraced the new direction of the whisky market. Much of this is due to the work of Master Blender, Dr. Don Livermore, who has taken on a public role as ambassador not only for his distillery but for Canadian whisky in general. 

Toward the value end of the Wiser's lineup, Triple Barrel Rye is a response to ballooning demand for rye-forward whisky. Variations of this bottling exist for Europe, Australia, and the US, but here at home this is a blend of pot- and column-distilled rye. The former highlights the spicy side of rye with the latter more grain-forward. The namesake three barrels are new American oak with a relatively light char, first fill ex-Bourbon casks (meaning they were used once in Kentucky before being sent to Canada), and older multiuse barrels from amongst the millions on hand. The blend is bottled at the slightly elevated 43.4% and comes in a thoughtfully ergonomic bottle perfect for gripping and pouring. It's an entry level big rye and is a terrific jumping off point for those looking to explore the grain.

J.P. Wiser's Triple Barrel Rye 

(Canadian edition)

43.4% alc./vol.

$33 at LCBO

The nose is oaky with pronounced sweet prune. Grainy rye, biscuit notes, and florality are also in there. There's a warm spiciness and some honey to round out the luscious bouquet.

On the palate, there is initial manuka honey bringing floral sweetness and a warming, oaky rye spice undertone. That sweet honey note becomes delicately floral, suggesting rose petals. Beneath, the rye becomes sharper and hotter, graduating to a flash of white hot pepper. This is slightly tempered by well-integrated oak and it's subtle vanilla sweetness. It's all set against the florality and subtle honeydew and clove notes.

The finish is short but focused, with plenty of hot rye. Cinnamon and white pepper bring the heat, set against tannic oak that imparts almost a red wine richness. The finish fades quickly but has already brought plenty of heat.

All in all, Triple Barrel is a straightforward, but very well balanced whisky that doesn't shy away from big rye flavours. It has that raw electricity that only rye can give, but it's so nicely integrated. It would be my go-to for rye cocktails, with its dusty heat and subtle sweetness. As a sipper, this will please those who enjoy their rye on the hot side, like Alberta Springs 10 year.

Compared to that bottle, Triple Barrel is more floral but less tart. The two compare quite nicely; I'd definitely recommend tasting them side by side. Compared to Canadian Club 100% Rye, Triple Barrel has less of a bitter citrus note. The sweetness here is more subtly fruity and floral, rather than the butterscotch of the CC. 

This is a very nice, budget friendly, rye-forward bottling from J.P. Wiser's. It's a go-to for cocktailing but also an enjoyable sipper for those who like their rye sharp and hot. Not terribly complex, but balanced and focused, this is a great budget bottle that I'd keep on hand any time.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 88

Characteristic: Spicy and Floral

^ Customised transport trucks bring barrels to the Walkerville bottling facility from the warehouses in the suburb of Pike Creek, and back again.

Crown Royal Northern Harvest

As with the iconic purple-bagged Crown Royal De Luxe, no Canadian whisky discussion can ignore Crown's Northern Harvest Rye bottling. Or at least not since 2016, when it was awarded World Whisky of the Year in Jim Murray's Whisky Bible, the foremost authority on whisky rankings. Enthusiasts were surprised, to say the least, that a $30 whisky from Canada beat out ancient single malts. In Scotland, there were howls of outrage that Mr. Murray had betrayed his nation and whisky fans worldwide greeted the decision with anything from excitement to indignation. 

Still, Northern Harvest flew off every shelf across Canada and bottles were listed for resale on the international secondary market for tens of thousands of dollars. Now, there's something to be said, and that's the reality that the first release which Jim Murray tried is not the same as subsequent releases in which Crown Royal scrambled to meet unlimited demand. Though this bottle didn't start the trend toward big, rye-forward Canadian whisky, it certainly kicked it into high gear.

The bottle now widely available is 90% rye and retails Canada-wide for under $40. Is this bottling the best whisky in the world? Probably not. But is it the best whisky in the world under $40? That's quite possible. 

Since Northern Harvest won its 2016 award, the trend toward big rye-forward whisky has only picked up steam, and there are now plenty of options at this price point and above. Some will point to Lot 40 as being the superior affordable big rye, but Northern Harvest continues to win legions of fans and global awards alike. Whether or not it's the best whisky on Earth, it's absolutely worth picking up and enjoying, so that every rye fan can judge for themself. 

Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye

40% alc./vol.

$36 at LCBO

On the nose, Northern Harvest doesn't open with the spice notes you might expect from such a prominent rye. Instead, dark stone fruit, sweet butterscotch, pear, and even bright citrus. The rye comes in a little later as a dry, sharp heat and the suggestion of dill, but it isn't the dominant note by any stretch. 

The palate is quite buttery and viscous. Strong butterscotch flavours emerge first before the awaited rye explodes in a flash of heat. I don't find this burst of rye to be as complex as in Alberta Springs, for example, it's mostly just hot at first. It's quite a jarring start to a tasting but Northern Harvest soon settles in and rewards our patience. 

Compelling ginger and baking spices lead the reinvention of this whisky as a balanced, complex dram. The heat quickly dims to a background glow and the butterscotch falls into balance as a nice undertone to vanilla and oak. The now-restrained spice is complimented by nutmeg, clove, black liquorice, and dried orange - it's Christmas!  

The heat picks up again on the finish. Mostly that's in the form of cinnamon but there is a slight, off-putting alcohol burn. Very slight though. The oak comes to the fore alongside dry grain character, which finally brings the dusty, dry Prairie character you might expect throughout. A touch of bitter citrus rind joins in but the finish is mostly a drying, hot, and long one, and it leaves you wanting another sip.

So, is this the best whisky in the world? Probably not. It's not even the best whisky in Canada. But it's easily one of the best whiskies in the world under $40. And it's certainly one of the biggest, most intense drams you can find. If you can get past the challenging first sip, you're in for a rewarding rye bursting with warmth and midwinter flavour. 

So it may not be the best in the world, but it is fantastic whisky. Most people think 'smooth' when they think Crown, which makes sense. This bottle, though, is the exact opposite; there's none of Crown's devotion to smoothness, only to the intensity of flavour readily on display. This is a demanding and rewarding whisky and for less than $40, I dont know of any bottle packing in quite so much. For the drinker looking to awaken their tastebuds, this is your whisky. Such big, brash flavours usually only come to those who shell out for cask strength bottlings, certainly not value-priced bottles like this one.

If Crown Royal decided one day to release an older Northern Harvest with more time to smooth out the youthful brashness then look out world, you may have found the real best in show. But until then, this is the affordable whisky that delivers massive flavour to those ready for it.

Heatseeker Score: 87

Category Score: 93

Characteristic: Warming