Collingwood

Though we're continuing on the sweet side after our last review of Seagram's VO Gold, this whisky is extremely different in method and result. Collingwood is the result of a distillery branching out in their aging and then again in their finishing process, introducing a process to Canada that seems like it should have been around for a long time. 

In the idyllic resort town of Collingwood, on the shores of Nottawasaga Bay, the Canadian Mist Distillery has long produced simple whisky for export to the US market. Canadian Mist has been a favourite for mixing amongst Americans for decades, but as tastes changed, the distillery decided to venture into more interesting bottlings. They created Collingwood Whisky as a result, but also pioneered their maple finishing process in doing so. 

Collingwood starts with a base of corn and malted barley, like it's sibling Canadian Mist, and is distilled in an unusual (for Canada) method. This base is triple distilled to become very neutral in flavour, then enters a 'doubler.'  The doubler is a common element of bourbon production, and removes some impurities through copper contact. It almost functions as a fourth distillation, which brings this base close to vodka territory for flavour neutrality. Though that may be ideal for the exported Canadian Mist brand, Collingwood needed a big hit of flavour, and finds this in the rye distillate made here. 

Added only sparingly to Canadian Mist, this punchy rye is added liberally to Collingwood and doesn't shy away from the white hot side of that grain. 

Now comes the interesting part; Collingwood's signature is a "mellowing" process using toasted maple staves. It levels out the bright rye with a sweet, round flavour that can only be from Canada. To achieve this, the fully-aged base and rye barrels are emptied together for marrying into stainless steel vats, with toasted (but not charred) maple staves; basically a deconstructed barrel. The staves float atop the blend for a couple months before proofing down with Georgian Bay water and then bottling. 

This standard bottle comes in at just $35 in Ontario, another example of the tremendous value to be found in Canadian whisky. It's now been joined by some limited release editions like the terrific Town Collection Double-Barreled and the rare, very interesting 21 year rye. All of Collingwood's expressions highlight the signature smooth maple finish and this entry-level bottle is a fine example of that. It looks great on a bar but more importantly entices whisky lovers with the prospect of future releases from this suddenly very interesting distillery. 

The Collingwood area is known for its skiing, boating, and golf and has also become a hotbed for cider. After a couple of those, a transition to a dram of this whisky could cap off a perfect day in this corner of paradise. 

^The stylish Canadian market bottle.

Collingwood Canadian Whisky

40% alc./vol.

$35 at LCBO

The nose is carried by rich brown sugar, caramel, green apple, and some earthiness. Maple, of course, follows as does what I can only describe as peanut butter and even a bit of a meaty note. There's florality and just a touch of oak, but no burn nor suggestion of the coming rye spice. Quite nice in all; rich, sweet, and ever so Canadian. 

On the palate, the oak leads alongside the maple, which is entwined throughout. The mouthfeel is thick and lovely. More brown sugar, caramel, and even some saltiness before a quick slap of scalding rye (in the best possible way!). Capsicum, peppercorn, and chili oil take over for just a fleeting moment, but leave big flavour implications. Before you know it, the maple washes back over and soothes the palate, departing in a viscous syrupy wave.

The finish begins with more of that great maple before the remnants of the rye take over, with lingering bitter citrus. The hot embers are still there but it's mostly the bitter pith noticed. 

What an interesting whisky. It brings so much rich maple but also rye heat in abundance. It's not perfect though; this won't be the first review to call the middles a bit thin. Maybe the rye component, in all it's fiery glory, is a little too fleeting. There so much there but it is almost immediately quelled by the maple's return. 

That's not necessarily a bad thing for most people who pick this bottle up; it manages to pack all that heat and still be a very easy sipper. With both the heat and the sweet balanced pretty well, Collingwood should please loads of rye drinkers. This whisky lover salivates at the thought of a higher-strength release that could unleash more complexity. But on its own, this is much more than just a good looking bottle; it's an innovative and very Canadian exploration that should always be on hand as a sipper. There's not a lot better out there for $35 and almost no other whiskies that can genuinely please everyone without compromising for anyone.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 91

Characteristic: Maple

Seagram's VO Gold

These days, Bombardier is Quebec's fallen star, a global titan ravaged by mismanagement now a shell of its former self. But before Bombardier, another Quebecois company turned its back on its home and overextended itself to the brink. 

Unlike Bombardier, when distilling megabrand Seagram's began to founder, it didn't eventually catch itself, though the name still graces the shelves of bottle shops around the world. 

The Seagram Company can trace its lineage to 1857, when it was a distillery in Waterloo, Ontario. During American Prohibition, the Montreal-based Distillers Corporation acquired the distillery and used it as a base for a rum running operation, which only led to further success when the American market reopened in the '30s. At the same time, Distillers Corporation, run by Samuel Bronfman, bought the shuttered Greenbriar Distillery in Tennessee, dismantled it, and had it reassembled in LaSalle, Quebec. 

From here, the Seagram brand flourished, growing to hundreds of products that were exported all over the world. Seagram produced Crown Royal and VO, two of the most popular whisky brands on Earth. Even today, rare Crown Royal bottlings made from Waterloo and LaSalle casks fetch hundreds of dollars. 

However, all was not destined to end well. When New York-based heir Edgar Bronfman, Jr took over the family business, he aggresively diversified, investing in oil, entertainment, and myriad other properties. This drove Seagram into debt until, by 2000, the company was being sold off left and right. The beverage division ended up going to conglomerate Diageo. An Indiana-based distillery was sold to MGP, today known as the source of whisky for dozens of American producers large and small. 

Today, Seagram's whiskies are still produced, though not by the Bronfman family. Diageo moved Seagram's brands to the nearby Valleyfield Distillery in Sallaberry-de-Valleyfield, just west of Montreal. The distillery produces a sweet corn distillate and rye distilled elsewhere is blended into Valleyfield's whiskies. 

Seagram's VO  ('Very Own,' likely) produced here remains wildly popular as a cheap mixer, especially in the States. The Gold offering is an extension for VO fans looking for a richer, slightly more upscale blend. So far as I've been able to tell, it's only available as an export, so Canadians will have to travel to the States to find this on the shelf. 

It comes in an attractive bottle with a distinctive ribbon and a statement proclaiming it as the signature blend of Arthur Peterson, veteran Master Blender. A good effort went into making this look like and feel like a premium bottling. All this despite a bargain price, though it would probably be more mid-range if it were sold in tax-mad Canadian bottle shops. It does, notably, carry an 8 year age statement - extremely rare at this price point. It's an interesting mixer in an attractive bottle at an even more attractive price point. It achieves exactly what was intended here and, though it won't win any awards as a sipper, it is the star of many a cocktail. And it offers more than you might expect on its own. Bartenders both at home and professional should be glad the Seagram story continues in whisky form. 

Seagram's VO Gold

40% ABV

USD$18.94 (C$26.80 at time of writing) found at Total Wine and More, Florida

The first whiff of VO Gold brings peach and linalool (Fruit Loop-y) sweetness quite strongly, moving into caramel and a restrained oaky rye spice. There's a little ethanol heat but its not overpowering. Citrus comes through as well, and is that coriander? I dare say the nose suggests a floral London Dry gin (Hayman's, perhaps) as much as rye whisky. It's pleasant, though, and surprisingly complex; a testament to what eight years can do to the sweetness of corn distillate. 

On the palate, sweet, floral tastes lead off. That distinctive coriander is there alongside those sweet double distilled corn notes you'll find in cheaper mixers. Caramel, a little maple, and peach give way to a dry, oaky rye spice with bitter grapefruit rind.

The finish is medium-length and led by oak and bitter grapefruit. Plum and dark fruit follow before a wave of oily, spicy rye washes over all and closes out this surprisingly complex whisky. 

There's no doubt about it, VO is a mixing whisky and it's Gold brother is built from the same stuff. Those who stear clear of sweet whiskies ought avoid this bottle, but it checks all the boxes as a liquid dessert. As sipping whiskies go, there are obviously better out there, but that's not why this whisky exists. It does deserve to be sipped and will reward the drinker who pours it neat, but VO Gold is best as a valuable asset for the cocktailer looking to add more than just vanilla or dry rye spice. The bitter citrus part of this whisky simply begs for a slice of orange and some ice.

Its a sweet whisky, but in the totality of that descriptor. It's longer aging time bequeaths a complexity that makes this a great exploration of corn as a whisky grain, and it's highly demonstrative of the Valleyfield style. For a surprisingly complex bottle that looks great on a bar, at a terrific price, VO Gold is a truly solid choice. 

Heatseeker Score: 84

Category Score: 91

Characteristic: Sweet

Lot 40

No fulsome Canadian spirits discussion would be complete without lengthy attention paid to Canada's largest distillery, by far; Windsor's Hiram Walker Distillery. More than just whisky, this truly massive distillery churns out millions upon millions of products every month ranging from brown to clear to all kinds of coloured liqueurs. There are not many bottle shops on earth that don't sell something which passed through a still, warehouse, or bottling line in this corner of Southwest Ontario. 

As a Canadian distillery, though, the public focus is invariably on the whisky they make here, and they make a lot of it too. The vast J.P. Wiser portfolio, Canadian Club, and numerous other brands are produced at Hiram Walker. But of all these, few have consistently garnered such admiration as Lot 40. 

The 2012 resurrection of this niche 1990s label was greeted with jubilation by nostalgic whisky fans. When the brand first launched, the market wasn't there for bold ryes, but thankfully Lot 40 is perfect for today's adventurous palate. 

Made from 90% unmalted and 10% malted rye, the comparisons to world-beater Crown Royal Northern Harvest are inevitable and frequent. Also inevitable and frequent are the awards lavished on this whisky and it's transcendent cask strength brethren. In fact, Lot 40 claims the title as Canada's most awarded whisky brand over the past decade.

The standard Lot 40 carries no age statement but is reputed to be at least seven years old in large part, and is bottled at 43%. Much of the blend comes from a relatively small pot still tucked in a corner of the towering stillhouse. It's then aged in virgin American oak. In the bottle it's spicy, woody, and massively flavourful; a highlight in Master Blender Dr. Don Livermore's portfolio. If this bottle is perceived as the global standardbearer for Canada's whisky renaissance, that status is richly deserved. Oh, and the best part, it's not even $40 a bottle.

Lot No. 40 100% Pot Still Rye

43% ABV

$39.95 at the LCBO

Oak immediately hits the nose, but not with the signature vanilla of American oak. Sour cherry, dark plum, and lots of tobacco come forward alongside a restrained rye spice. There's no astringency or ethanol burn at all. 

The nose closely begets the palate, which is further testament to the blending skill evinced by this whisky. Brown sugar leads to a distinctive rye bread flavour, with caraway and dill. The dill takes on a sour note, complementing a slowly growing restrained spice. Nutmeg and a touch of capsicum with more bready, slightly sour notes. 

There's still no burn here, but a slight heat builds leading into more fresh, dry oak and just the slightest hot Tabasco sauce before a lingering, distinctive cool mint refreshes the tongue.

This is not a typical rye whisky in any way. The juvenile heat and typical flavour profile of a young rye are replaced with full, complex, and surprising notes blended to perfection. There is skill on display at every step of the process.

Dr. Livermore suggests Hiram Walker's focus has squarely turned to the rye grain these days and new, smaller pot stills are being added. This is the leading edge of a trend seeing distilleries large and small renew the focus on rye in this country. Lot 40 is simply a preview of what we can expect as craft distillers and large ones alike put aside lots of pot rye and age it longer.  

Wrapped up in its stylish bottle and sold for far less than it could be, this whisky deserves its massive award haul and its role as the flagbearer for a new generation of Canadian whisky. Lot 40 is quite possibly the best whisky anywhere at this price point and is a true global ambassador for rye.

Heatseeker Score: 90

Category Score: 95

Characteristic: Complex

Where the magic happens; the Lot 40 pot still at Windsor's Hiram Walker Distillery.

More whisky for Ontario! Getting to know Whisky Quarterly

Spirits drinkers in Ontario are all-too-well acquainted with the perils of the LCBO; the near monopoly operated by the government on spirits sales in the province. Although it is one of the world's largest alcohol buyers, the LCBO frequently lacks rare bottlings from abroad, favouring larger corporate brands.

Though they've made some effort to improve the small-batch selection, it is their quasi-monopoly that really imperils drinkers, pushing out independent brands who can't afford to deal with the bureaucracy. As a particularly frustrating example, whisky fans in Alberta and BC can access the limited releases of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society through private alcohol retailers. At the same time, shops like Calgary's Kensington Wine Market routinely unveil private bottlings from Canadian distilleries. No such luck for Ontario, though at least one group are trying to change that. 

Heatseeker recently had the chance to chat with Brendan Waller, who is launching Whisky Quarterly Ontario. More than just a whisky club, Brendan has recently secured agency status with the LCBO, allowing him to import spirits from around the world. We asked him about his journey and what Ontario whisky fans can look forward to.

How did the idea for Whisky Quarterly come about?

Whisky Quarterly Ontario was born out of was a tasting for a “diaper party” for me prior to my first son’s birth. A group of about 20-25 all piled into my basement, Kris lead us through five expressions that included Scotch, Canadian whisky, Japanese whisky and bourbon. Similar to my own experience, everyone loved trying different bottles and seeing, well, tasting, the difference. It was that night that Whisky Quarterly Ontario was truly founded.

Since then, we’ve been doing “quarterly” rotations with Mike, one of the Product Managers of brown spirits at the LCBO. More than two years later, here we are on the cusp of something far larger and ambitious with our own membership.

How would you describe Whisky Quarterly?

Whisky Quarterly Ontario is literally a community for lovers of brown, and all spirits. As mentioned, we started off with quarterly selections of various whiskies, have done some events, but what I am most excited about is what is coming shortly – our membership.

Our membership walks the line between a wine club and a micro-expression whisky club. We couldn’t go the wine club route, as spirits cost much more than wine so the membership would have been astronomical. I didn’t want to do micro-expressions, as I don’t want to ever try something myself and realise I can never get it, or afford it again.

We struck out to ensure the upcoming membership was priced within the range of an “average bottle” of whisky at the LCBO. This membership fee then gains you access as a consumer to craft whiskies and spirits such as gin, vodka, rum and more that are not regularly available on the LCBO shelves. The benefit is, as we are licensed by the AGCO and work within the LCBO’s systems, that we get to utilise the processes laid out by the governing bodies. As the LCBO is the largest importer of spirits in the world, nice to know they have things figured out for a venture like us!

What's the startup process been like?

Loooooooong to say the least. The model we are putting forth is the result of about 1-year of phone calls and emails with various departments within the LCBO. We knew from the get-go we were going to need to be within regulations of the province. 

Following that was the licencing process with the AGCO, distillery recruitment, and paperwork for them to be able to sell in Ontario ... it goes on and on. Even recently, agent training with the LCBO, getting accustomed to their systems and their processes to get ordering and products setup. Then of course COVID-19 hit, which is slowing things down. But my background is Scottish-Irish, so I have a lot of stubbornness. I just keep pushing forward.

What's in it for members of the club?

Events and purchasing spirits will be the core ways that members will be able to participate. We also have a number of Facebook groups setup for various areas we’re setup in like Kitchener-Waterloo, Hamilton, Durham Region and a new one starting up in Ottawa. They’re great ways for whisky/spirit lovers to come together and enjoy. It’s also how I coordinate the quarterly recommendations.

There are a number of other ideas we have floating around, but those will be revealed as time goes on.

What are your next steps toward launch?

There are a few steps we’re working on which I am excited about.

1) The membership, obviously, this allows us to fulfill our aspirations of getting unique, quality craft spirits into Ontario for people to enjoy. This also is the jumping point for really turning WQO into a far larger venture.

2) Restaurants and bars is another area of focus for us. We’re looking for and discussing options with unique restaurants and venues who want to be able to distinguish themselves further by acting as a location for events, as well as carrying our exclusive products for their customers to enjoy –– and hopefully then become future members.

3) Events, events, events! One of our early validations of our model came from Spencer Gooderham, a legend himself within the world of Canadian whisky. I got to know Spencer through runnings some tastings and have been so ecstatic for his insights on the industry and his willingness to work with us on events in the future and assist in promoting our exclusive distilleries within the Province.

4) Delivery API, this is coming hopefully shortly after the membership launch. We are working with an AGCO delivery service that has an API. This will allow, at the outset, visitors to our site to be able to come and order their favourite LCBO whiskies and have it coordinated to be delivered through their service. It gets us around having to become a delivery service ourselves, and I have always believed that partnerships are critical for any business to flourish.

5) Well, wait and see. But I have some other ideas rumbling around in my head ;)

How can people get involved?

There are a number of things people could do to get involved:

1) Dram ambassadors/Chapter leaders who act as our champions to help promote WQO in their immediate area: https://www.whiskyquarterlyontario.com/dram-ambassadors/

2) Membership, of course, so this will become sustainable and we can focus more and more on delivering spirits from more distilleries, from more countries around the world to Ontario: https://www.whiskyquarterlyontario.com/membership/

3) We would like to start building a section on our site for third-party reviews of products, recipes, etc –– anyone who is interested in that, we’re open to discussing what that may look like and how to get it up on the site in a timely manner.

4) Help us spread the word! We’re on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube. Support our channels, tell your spirit-loving friends and family about us. To date, the awareness and progress we have is primarily through word of mouth, always exciting to see that organic awareness to continue to grow!

5) Have a distillery you’d like to see in Ontario, or an idea of how to help us craft Whisky Quarterly Ontario into something bigger, better? Ping us on our contact form on our website and I will be in touch.

What I love about this industry is how passionate everyone is. It’s what has taken a very simple tasting, towards where we are today. I am incredibly humbled and grateful for the support of my team, the community and people in the business itself.

Last question; what have you been drinking lately and why?

If you had asked me this even 3 years ago, I would have said flat-out: Lagavulin 16. I love peated scotch. However, now, it’s so hard to choose. I love the sweetness of bourbon, the subtlety of Japanese and other international whiskies that I have in my collection. Like so many, I am coming to really appreciate the Canadian whiskies out there. We were a whisky nation and we’re again on the rise in Canada which is amazing to see and appreciate.

-

There you have it. I know I'm going to be keeping a close eye on the progress at Whisky Quarterly here and would encourage any Ontario spirits fans to do the same. Here's hoping they bring us some of the fantastic ryes being made out West! If you're interested, check out their website; www.whiskyquarterlyontario.com/ 

They're also on Instagram @whiskyquarterlyontario

Best of luck Brendan, hope see you soon for a (previously unavailable) dram!

Liquormen's Ol' Dirty

Celebrity-branded spirits are hardly a new concept. Any corporate behemoth with cash to burn can pay an athlete, musician, or actor to slap their name on a bottle of anything. Inevitably, sales will soar as the cult of personality supercedes taste. When all is said and done, most of these celebrity bottles don't reflect their namesakes in the slightest. Thankfully, that isn't the case with the Trailer Park Boys.

Hot on the heels of their beer brand, ripped right from the screenplay of the iconic Canadian tv and film franchise, the Boys created a whisky that reflects their tastes perfectly.

You can almost hear Bubbles exhorting you to "drive that into yer gut" as he hands you a bottle of Liquormen's Ol' Dirty Canadian Whisky. 

Bottled by Newfoundland's Rock Spirits, this sourced whisky is very much not made for contemplative sipping. Slightly too pricey for Jim Lahey-level consumption, it's still an affordable bottle that's better than you'd expect. It's aged for three years in charred white oak, though more details on the whisky's origins aren't publically available.

No cheeseburger picnic would be complete without a bottle of Liquormen's, sure, but as an irreverent ingredient in an inspired cocktail, Liquormen's will shine on its own merits. A must for Trailer Park Boys fans (who isn't one?) but also a pleasant surprise as a whisky.

Liquormen's Ol' Dirty Canadian Whisky

40% ABV

$33.95 at the LCBO

Pouring a straw colour, this whisky smells like what it is, young rye. Corn sweetness, hot rye, and a little ethanol burn hit the nose. There is some light citrus as well on the fresh, hot nose. 

The palate has more body and viscosity than you might expect. It starts off with a typical caramel sweetness but white hot rye quickly explodes alongside vanilla. There is a slight musty off-flavour in the distant background, almost plum-like. Its quickly masked by cassia and peppercorns from the potent rye grain. Not too syrupy, the sweetness continues to build as the rye carries into the finish. 

Ironically, the best descriptor for the finish might just be clean. Spicy young rye carries through to a hot finale with growing brown sugar notes. Noticeable oak intermingles with the heat and banishes any corn sweetness. Before you know it, you realise this is a focused, glowing finish that actually begs for another pour. Next thing you know, you're mowing the air, Randy! 

Heatseeker Score: 80

Category Score: 85

Characteristic: Sweet and Hot

"Randy, I am the liquor."

Forty Creek Barrel Select

Forty Creek holds a special place in the history of Canadian whisky. Founded in 1992, at a global low point for whisky, the plucky startup had to take on the big Canadian players and the crushing LCBO monopoly without any support from today's craft spirits industry. Being located on the Niagara Peninsula, the distillery originally focused on grape spirits. Kittling Ridge, as it was exclusively known then, undertook a rebranding and pivoted to whisky, and the rest became history. Forty Creek can rightly claim to be something of a pioneer in small-batch whisky not only in Canada but in the world. 

Today, the distillery is owned by Campari, largely as a North American production facility for global spirits brands. Led by founder John Hall and blender Bill Ashburn, a range of whiskies from everyday to rare releases have come from Forty Creek in recent years earning them the plaudits they well deserve. They produce a number of non-whisky spirits including Kingsgate fortified wines; a fabulously affordable sweet sipper.

Within the whisky community, well-circulated speculation that much of Forty Creek's whisky is created at Windsor's Hiram Walker Distillery persists. Regardless, this isn't something to be ashamed of nor is it a black mark against Forty Creek. With Canadian whisky, the emphasis is so heavily on single-grain aging and then blending; the creative work is certainly done in Niagara even if the distilling is done in Windsor. More power to them if they're sourcing distillate and aging it themselves, much of the best world whisky is sourced from one distillery or another. 

This bottling is the standard, entry-level Forty Creek found all over Canada and abroad. It's a solid baseline Eastern Canadian rye (by which I mean it features a healthy dose of base corn whisky). The corn is blended with rye and also barley for complexity. Most of the whisky in here is aged 6-10 years and sherry cask finished. Pretty good for a sub-$30 whisky, and evidence that rye is still laughably underpriced in the whisky world. This is not a bottle that will blow anyone away but is perfectly solid for the price point and extremely versatile. Nothing wrong with that!

Forty Creek Barrel Select

40% ABV

$27.75 at the LCBO

The nose carries some dusty rye and a healthy dose of vanilla-y American oak. Quite a few subtle fruit and floral notes there as well - one conjures the vineyards that surround this distillery. 

On the palate, the oaky notes are strong. It's a vanilla forward taste, with plenty of toasted barrel influence. The sweetness betrays the double-distilled corn that forms the base here, before the rye comes through late. Not a tonne of rye on the palate, but it's in there, suspended between the corn and some subtle malty notes. Sweetness is the name of the game here.  A viscous sherry sweetness of dark fruit and marzipan comes through in hints, leading into the straightforward finish. 

More vanillin and oak come through on the finish, with a little rye spice. Short and with a touch of bitterness, the finish doesn't verge far from what came on the palate. Pleasant dusty rye lingers a little, with some maple sweetness.

In all, it's a fairly simple, sweet, oaky whisky. It's a little above what you'd expect at the price and is perfectly pleasant for a sip and great as a blender. Certainly one of the finer sub-$30 whiskies out there and from a trailblazing distillery no less. A great alternative to one of the mainstream entry-level ryes, and certainly a more interesting bottle to break out for casual drinks with friends.

Heatseeker Score: 82

Category Score: 88

Characteristic: Sweet and Oaky

Please also enjoy our review of Forty Creek's Double Barrel Reserve here.

Captain's Table (1960s)

Here's something we don't get to enjoy everyday; a 1960's-vintage blend. It's Canadian whisky the way it used to be, full of the big flavours that are only now returning after the '80s brought vodka to the forefront and destroyed bold whisky for decades. 

Captain's Table was made at L.J. McGuinness Distillery Co. in Toronto's West End. Though the brand is now known for its liqueurs behind every bar, it existed as an independent distiller from 1938 to 1988, when it was bought by Corby (and production was moved to Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, where it continues today). 

The bottle reviewed here can't easily be traced to a specific vintage, though there is a lot number printed on the seal. Anyone with access to the LCBO archives, let me know! 

We do know this bottle was filled before 1969. In that year,  McGuinness was sold to Standard Brands and the bottle design was changed. 

By the time McGuinness was sold to Corby, whisky tastes had changed to light and smooth, chasing the vodka craze. Only now are drinkers returning to rich and flavourful ryes. 

Captain's Table is one of those old-school rich ryes. More like a Highland Scotch than a traditional rye, it's smoky rather than spicy. Truly enjoyable, collectors who come across one of these rare bottles should jump on it. Not only is it a throwback to a bygone era of distilling, it's an absolutely fantastic dram.

Captain's Table Canadian Whisky

Pre-1969 Bottling

43% ABV

McGuinness Distillers, Toronto

A surprising aroma of smoke right off the hop leads to sweetness and stewed fruits. Plum stands out on the nose and leads the way on the palate.

The plum is joined by full caramel and brown sugar notes. Rich vanilla, oak, and even a hint of orange peel suggest remarkable similarities to today's Tomatin 12 year single malt. It isn't what you'd expect in a rye, and is a departure from similar Canadian bottlings of the era, notably Canadian Club. 

The palate fades into more smoke, almost akin to a peated malt. A slight peppery warmth suggests rye, followed by toasty grain and mildly sweet dried cranberry. Roasted coffee leads into a short but smoky finish. 

All in all, unexpected and full bodied whisky unlike anything currently being released. Whisky lovers can only hope Hiram Walker one day release a faithful new Captain's Table. Until then, though, only the lucky few of us can savour a taste of the past. 

Heatseeker Score: 91

Category Score: N/A

Characteristic: Elegant

Centennial Limited Edition Canadian Rye Whisky

If Centennial is anything, it's a trickster. It's shockingly low price point means whisky drinkers can pick up a bottle without a second thought. At the same time, though, it's easy-drinking nature means you'll be back for another bottle far sooner than you'd planned. Few whiskies are easier to get hooked on than this one.

Centennial is made at Highwood Distillery, about forty-five minutes south of Calgary in the Foothills of the Rocky Mountains. The town of High River exudes western charm backdropped by that reach-out-and-touch-them Rockies vista only Alberta can provide. 

Like other whiskies from Highwood,  Centennial is built on a base of soft winter wheat, rather than the ubiquitous corn that anchors many blended whiskies elsewhere. That wheaten base is the epitome of gentle, soft, smooth flavours that ease the palate into the rye grain that follows. Aged in Alberta's dry climate in ex-bourbon barrels, the whisky comes out smoothly integrated and delightful throughout. Due to growing demand, Highwood dropped the 10 year age statement that used to be present, but this whisky is still likely somewhere close to that. Wheat can sometimes be too sweet if not aged long enough; see what it does in a young wheated bourbon and you'll find a completely different grain to what's in Centennial. I'd challenge anyone to find a comparable well-aged whisky that can compete at a sub-$30 price.

This is one of a handful of Southern Alberta ryes rhat are, to me, the consummate casual Canadian whiskies. Alongside Alberta Premium and Alberta Springs, these drams effortlessly balance everyday ease with a hot rye kick. And they retail for almost laughably low prices. The province really is the perfect place to make rye. Before trying this one, be sure to thank the whisky angels for giving us Alberta. 

Centennial Limited Edition Canadian Rye Whisky

2019 Bottling

40% ABV

$28.95 at the LCBO

A soft, fruity, buttery nose with suggestions of a deeper earthiness or even a hint of smoke. Oak for sure, with what might be a tiny hint of strawberry.

In the mouth, Centennial's balancing act opens with the sweet, soft, oaky wheat. Not toasty per se, but more toward vanilla and butter. Then in comes the rye, clean and hot. This is rye of the capsicum, cinnamon, black pepper variety. Still under this heat lies that supple wheat. I get pithy grapefruit at the tail end which leads into a short, balanced finish. 

The interplay between buttery wheat and pepper departs with that dry, woody rye note people love. Only the slightest whisper of alcohol burn hints at anything other than total refinement. The finish, though short and straightforward, demands another pour. 

This whisky is extremely clean, not overly complex, but so well balanced. There aren't any off-flavours that jump out. Centennial is indeed the ideal easygoing rye. It'll be a challenge to pour just one dram but, at the fantastic price point, that isn't really a concern. Fantastic stuff; just as much a great first taste for the Canadian whisky newbie as a faithful staple on the largest bar.

Heatseeker Score: 85

Category Score: 92

Characteristic: Smooth

For an explanation of the scoring system, please see the Reviews page.

^ A handy parking spot just outside High River in summer 2018

Keep Calm and Distill On; the crucial role of distilleries in the global pandemic

As the coronavirus lockdown stretches on with no end in sight, we've seen almost every sector of the economy shut down. Though alcohol sales are booming (and why wouldn't they, given the circumstances), distilleries across Canada aren't producing new whisky these days. Instead, stills have turned toward the communal good in this total state of exception. 

Hand sanitiser is pouring out of stills everywhere. But how simple is the switch to sanitiser production? For some distilleries, it turns out, it's quite simple. 

Like you would with most spirits, you need to distill alcohol to over 65% to produce effective sanitiser. Without worrying about flavour implications, distilleries can use whatever grain or fruit base they have on hand. Fermentation should be hot and fast, designed simply to produce the most alcohol possible. That gets distilled, and mixed with moisturiser and bitter flavours to discourage drinking. 

As well as a vital part of the healthcare puzzle, sanitiser is also a great use of 'leftover' alcohol in a distillery. It turns out much of the sanitiser being made at distilleries today comes from feints that would otherwise be discarded.

The feints include heads and tails, the parts of a whisky distillation run that don't go into the final collection. These can be redistilled but there will always be flavour compounds that don't make it into the bottle. Still, there is great alcohol there, and when the taste doesn't matter, sanitiser is the perfect use for these leftovers. 

Right now, the world can't use enough sanitiser, but will the trend of recycling feints continue after the pandemic subsides? It seems likely. Column stills, which are ideal for producing high-alcohol products, run best when they are continuously being operated. So it makes sense for distillers to keep their stills running and churning out sanitiser as long as the market will take on more supply. 

Perhaps we're headed toward a time when customers can support their favourite craft distilleries by purchasing 'small batch' sanitiser. Whatever the future holds, distilleries will continue to be a part of it for pleasure and for social good.

Last Straw Rye - Batch 1

I'm really pleased that the first review on this blog should be from a distillery who've gone to great distances to pay forward their success in the industry. Last Straw, aside from producing a variety of intense, unique spirits, have allowed startups to create spirits using their facility and under their licence as they navigate the arduous process of acquiring their own stills. 

They also have a fascinating spirits programme of their own, working often with local farmers and the nearby Lake Wilcox craft brewery. The rye was their first whisky release, after three years in oak. The public were invited to a launch event at the distillery, which operates out of an unassuming industrial unit not far from fellow whisky pioneers Still Waters.

They weren't always in Vaughan, though. From the sound of it, it was a town planner with a vendetta who quashed their already-constructed farm distillery just outside the village of Erin. After sinking tens of thousands into that operation, the distillery had to pack up and relocate. In Vaughan, they found an enthusiastic council and wasted no time on their second attempt. 

After three years, at the launch party for their rye whisky, I was lucky to obtain a bottle signed by distiller Don Dimonte. Like it's quirky sprouted corn sibling, this single rye has won lots of praise. And it's well deserved, as this is a classic rye-forward whisky.

 In contrast to some whiskies (here but also in Scotland and elsewhere), this whisky is only distilled to 62.5%. That means a lot of the congeners that can add complexity are preserved, unlike the 'cleaner' whiskies that are distilled as high as 95%. After only three years in oak, even with a powerful new barrel, it would be quite possible to see those congeners come through as off-flavours in need of more aging to mellow out. That's not the case here though, as the rye is sharp and focused throughout. Those congeners will only serve to add to the flavour profile of this whisky as it ages further.

Interestingly, Last Straw label their whiskies with the American designation 'straight.' In the States, this designation stipulates certain grain quantities, still and cask strengths, and the use of new charred oak barrels. The term doesn't have any recognised definition in Canada, but it's been embraced anyway by Last Straw. To that end, the liquid spends it's time in #3 char virgin American oak. Regardless of label, this rye is superbly true to style and a fantastic option for someone exploring the spicy side of rye.

Last Straw Straight Ontario Rye

Batch 1 (2019)

43% ABV

$75 at www.laststrawdistillery.com

Clove, nutmeg, and grassy notes on the nose. With less of the sweet hints you sometimes get, this rye also brings hot spice right from the outset. 

That spice follows through to lead the palate with a fresh oakiness and sweet-hot cinnamon. Underneath, earthy flavours reveal themselves. I get some fennel late on the palate; perhaps its the interplay between the peppery heat and vegetal undertones. The middle is richer than many whiskies at this age with its herbaceous character. The complexity of the lower-strength distillation is revealed here.

The finish lightens somewhat with citrus, more peppery spice, and lingering maple and caramel. Really a nice way to round this one off.

This is a great rye after only three years and holds huge promise for the future. I can't wait to see what becomes of the vegetal undertones that lie beneath the hot rye. Today it's a terrific, warming dram  and a solid showpiece from a distillery doing a great deal behind the scenes of our fledgling industry. Ontario needs more distilleries like Last Straw!

Heatseeker Score: 88

Category Score: 86

For an explanation of the scoring system, please see the Reviews page.